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| Maintenance and Servicing: Discuss DIY CANISTER LIGHTS in the Dive Kit and Equipment forums: Hi all, Ive just got my copy of divelight companion with the intention of having a go at making a ... |
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| Imported post I do beleive digger can offer lots of advice on what not to try........
__________________ 50 hours and counting... now back on track again! |
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| Imported post Give up all hope of ever getting it to the point where it's perfect and you don't want to change anything else. Mine has spent more time diassembled in bits waiting for upgrades than it's ever spent in the water. Currently I'm convincing myself I don't need a torch on any dives, simply because I haven't put the thing back together yet. So it's a great money saver - I don't have a cannister torch, but I don't feel the need to go and buy one, as I have one sitting in bits in my spare room
__________________ Life is like being immersed in water - it feels good, but the longer it lasts, the more wrinkled you get |
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| Imported post Ian, I'm with Dominic on this! However, in my garage at night, it works just great! To be honest, I just haven't had time to deal with it lately as I've been concentrating on putting together a video housing and camera, but as soon as I get back from this upcoming trip to the Isle of Mull, I'm gonna finish that light. Putting together the electrics was pretty easy, my big problem is finding the right o-ring for my cannister. I'm using a 4" PVC pipe. Tony
__________________ Sacramento Tony |
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| Here's a link to some very good pictures of DIY cannister lights to get some ideas: http://groups.msn.com/Divelight/pictures Good luck Tony
__________________ Sacramento Tony |
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| Imported post Make sure you can recharge it without taking the whole thing to bits. Waterproof boots for toggle switches work well - fill them with vaseline in case of leaks. Have some way of locking the torch Off when using toggle switches, or protect it somehow to stop it coming on in your dive bag. Reed switch/Relay switches are simpler than they look to make. 30w halogens are fairly pathetic underwater. 50w halogens are fine. For real "Nightsun" stuff, Thorn, Osram and Phillips do higher wattage bulbs. I use an 85w bulb which isn't as white as a 10w HID, but it lights up the whole area like a floodlight. I get between around 40mins @ 85w before it starts to dim. I get light from it for around another 40mins before it dies. However, I have two 12v 7ah Yuasa batteries in my torch, so I can switch to the other battery and bingo, back to buddy-blinding strength! At 50w, I reckon to have at least 3 hours light. Make your cannister connection in such a way that you can put a HID head on it when you can afford the pennies. Bronze plumbing fittings make cheap connectors. Never underestimate the ability of water to find a way in. You can never have to much epoxy steel or Araldite. HTH |
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| Imported post Quote:
Most boots are rubber - vaseline, being petroleum jelly, will eat away at them. Silicon grease is more likely to give a lasting boot. Quote:
__________________ Life is like being immersed in water - it feels good, but the longer it lasts, the more wrinkled you get |
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| Imported post Well spotted Dom! You're quite right - check what your boots are made of first! The high wattage bulbs can be up to a tenner each, so I'd rather keep them safe in the lighthead. But it is an option, I'll grant you! |
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| Imported post Oh, I leave it IN the lighthead - it's just not plugged in Besides, I stick to 20 or 35w bulbs - could use a new bulb on every dive without caring about the cost
__________________ Life is like being immersed in water - it feels good, but the longer it lasts, the more wrinkled you get |
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| Imported post well ive made the light head, and it water tight down to 20 meters, but can i find any 5" PVC or acrylic, NO, does anybody know were i can get hold of any (in short lengths). phoned loads of companys in the north west but with no luck. Dave J
__________________ DJ |
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