Getting Grumpy, Old and Twisted
Alternate 5 minute hot soak (80 degC ish) then 5 minute chill (cold tap water)
Do this a few times which will cause the parts to expand and contract whereby the male/female thread interface will move slightly and help break the lock.
Also last soak may be better with a 50% vinegar solution incase there is any salt build up on the threads.
Then try a short piece of pipe on the allen key to get more purchase with the reg firmly gripped.
"We don't need no stinkin' badges!"
You're right, that bit will unscrew.Originally Posted by shermarama
It's a Scubapro Mk 20, and I'm pretty convinced that this bit should come off. Vance Harlow's reg servicing tome agrees with me. I've removed the filter retainer, spring and filter, and then there's the deep 6mm hex socket behind that, which should remove the DIN adaptor from the body of the reg.
Some people used to bollock them right down on the Mk20 and some ended up with cracked bodies as a result. Scubapro will swap out that part for a modified version with a collar that will shear off if you torque it down more than about 40 Nm - the correct torque is something like 32 Nm. I ended up using some large Stillsons to turn the Allen key that I use for this purpose on one reg that I bought, it was that tight.
Put the body of the reg in a vice with soft jaws - I use a Black & Decker Workmate. It doesn't have to be clamped too tight, just enough to get some purchase on it. Use a long Allen key and if you can't shift it by extending the handle with a length of pipe, try a spanner. If that fails, use a pipe wrench or Stillsons. It'll shift eventually.
New Member
Reasonably certain as I previously was, it's still good to hear that someone else thinks that comes off...
I think this one has been put on extremely tight, and then corroded into place for good measure. I've got a torque wrench for doing it up again but that's the problem with second hand gear, innit, it's not been done right last time.
I've already been using as much leverage as felt safe, but I might try the heating and cooling cycles and a bit more soaking - thanks for the advice, everyone!
aka,,, Tom Thompson
why not pay someone to do it the first time , and diy next time ,
if you cant get a din adaptor out ,, maybe you shouldnt be inside a reg at all , no offence meant , just being realistic.
I use commas,,,,,,,,,,,,, in an artistic way!
New Member
Because:why not pay someone to do it the first time , and diy next time ,
if you cant get a din adaptor out ,, maybe you shouldnt be inside a reg at all , no offence meant , just being realistic.
i) if I pay someone to do it the first time then I'll just be in the same boat next time
ii) if it's this stuck I don't trust many other people to get it out without breaking it - especially not Collins & Chambers, my local dive shop in Hackney, who the other week managed to take a working cylinder, give it its test and return it with a buggered valve (they fixed it, but taking it back and complaining was unecessary faff)
iii) FYI, I was a workshop technician for several years and I've got a degree in engineering - I'm not saying I can't get a DIN adapter out, I'm saying I can't get THIS one out. Yet. I'm not used to not being able to dunk stuck things in WD40, hence why I'm asking the advice of people who have learned to fear all things petroleum-based on what to use instead. No offence taken... *grins*
It seemed like a good idea at the time...
I've been in a similar situation with an Apeks HP balance plug - had to get it drilled out in the end.
aka,,, Tom Thompson
thats the whole idea ,,, give it to someone else to break , they can either fix it or break it , and next year its free enough to be handy , saving you cash in the longterm , brass isnt steel , and if your not used to it , it may as well be plactacine , it falls appart in your hands very easily, then it gets expensive quickly , just a thought.
some things its best not to scrimp on , guess it depends on how much faith you have in who ever services locally too.
I use commas,,,,,,,,,,,,, in an artistic way!
"We don't need no stinkin' badges!"
The correct Scubapro tool for this is a combined socket/Allen key. How difficult would it be to knock one of those up?
Get a decent tool-steel Allen key - not one of those freebies in an IKEA/MFI flat-pack kit. Cut the short bit off with an angle grinder, leaving a straight hex bar. put that into a decent hex socket and hey-presto! If you can't shift it with that send it back to a Scubapro technician with strict instructions to swap-out the old bit and replace, under warranty, with the new design at the correct torque.
New Member
i found this site when i was thinking of doing my own service ing not that iam endorsing it but it might help attached is a link to the scubapro page but if you navigate your way through the site thare are more manuals for various suppliers
http://www.frogkick.dk/manuals/scuba...ls/1.%20Stage/
New Member
I've worked in precision engineering for the past twenty years, making stuff for F1, the space shuttle etc.
Our rule of thumb is "if in doubt give it a clout, and if your unsure then hit it some more" Only joking.
If you're trying to hold something in a vice without damaging it, wrap it in an old Tshirt - Normally works.
Another thought is "Plus Gas" available from most motor spares shops. It is an oil based product so everything will need a damn good degrease and clean afterwards. But it has a great searching effect, so you just spray it on, leave it over night to soak in and hopefully it'll seep into the threads and release it.
I have a feeling I'm gonna get slated for this. But hey, I'm only trying to help!
PS. Just another thought "Left hand thread"??? Especially if it's made in the Euro zone, they love their left hand threads!
Last edited by Stebzy; 25-05-09 at 08:54 PM.
Posting Permissions 
LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Reply With Quote
