What Mountain Bike?

[DanE]

Hard, probably the GT 1.0... But, maybe the Trek is more suitable for what you want.

The GT higher spec componentry (albeit older spec) which will work better and be lighter. Often, though, the higher spec stuff won't last as long as the heavier built low end stuff. Mind you, I still have some '97 LX kit on my Orange!

The less travel on the Trek's fork is probably more suitable.

Have you ridden them? I would suggest they probably do ride differently given the blobs!

dan

[nickb]

The 2006 GT looks better value for money and has a slightly better spec.

The large chainring has a longer gearing and the forks have a shorter travel than the Trek too which will be better on the road.

If you want to use it mainly on the road you might want to ask if they'll swap the tyres for some hybrids or even slicks if you'll only be doing dry hardpack offroad. You'll wear knobblies out in five minutes on tarmac and it makes the going much tougher.

[Mark Davies]

It's been a while since I was involved in the mountain bike game (I used to have a shop and manage an MTB racing team) so I'm a little out of touch with current specs - but in general I'd agree with the advice to avoid disc brakes and suspension in that price range.

We were involved with the development of disc brakes in conjunction with Hope Technology back in the day. We had them fitted to the team bikes and have to say they were disasterous! I remember doing the UK leg of the Grundig world championships at Strathpefer where we first used them. Channel 4 televised it in those days and I got Gary Imlach to do a piece on our bikes and the brakes in particular for some publicity. We were saying how great they would be in muddy conditions as they don't rely on the rims for a braking surface. As it turned out the pads had faded away entirely by the end of the first lap! As said, you really need a hydraulic system for effective and reliable braking - in my experience I'd be doubtful of the systems on the cheaper bikes.

The same goes for suspension. On a bike of that price it won't be up to much. For cross country use forks alone are fine and they can be fitted later if you fancy it. Put your money into a good frame and decent components and you can build on it later if you want.

There's not much in it as far as manufacturers go in this price range - which is the low end of the serious MTB market. They're all pretty much the same. I'd shop around and look to pick up an end-of-range bargain. There's some good deals to be had.

So JAG, of your 3 choices I'd take the 2006 Avalance for the better spec'd kit. But if your heart is set on disc brakes then at least the 2007 Avalanche has a hydraulic system. I've never been too convinced by the triple triangle frames on GT's though - it really is just a brand signature. In my experience their frames are slightly heavier than most as a result and they don't half gather mud under the rear stays which tends to add another pound or so of weight once you get going! Looks like a decent buy, for the money compared with the Trek though.

[dorset_diver]

A vote here for the Avalanche, i have one and love it! Took me about 2 months, doing about 10/13 hours a week cross country in the mud and wet during winter to wear out my first set of pads! Great bike you wont be disapointed if you get one!

[Ian@1904]

Bicycle Doctor - Trail Hybrid Bikes - Trek 7100
I have a 7100 for light off road use and road work. A decent compromise, had mine for a year. You can select from a range of bikes to choose gears, brakes and suspension to suit your budget.
Like buying dive kit, its work visiting your nearest dealer - mine in in Letchworth

[rick]

Try this place: GIANT TREK CLAUD BUTLER GT MONGOOSE KONA :: Pauls Cycles
Basically they sell last years models at discount prices.
The shop is a few miles this side of Norwich.
I bought a GT something or other. Front suspension, V brakes. No complaints.
With a road bike you can size it by the crossbar. With a mountain bike you need to try it. They all seem to be measured differently.

[shippy]

try a demo bike i'm five six and the trek feels a long and tall bike to me, i ride a GT and that feels ok, but i'm not you.i still have a soft spot for carrera it used to truk better than the GT.

[JAG]

Right, thanks again all for your invaluable advice. For the type of riding I intend I've narrowed it down to two now. The GT Advance 1.0 2006 and the Trek 4500 2007. They are both aluminium frames and both have lockout forks. At this time have decided to avoid mechanical and hydraulic disc brakes, maybe an upgrade later on.

Off to Evans Cycles and will arrange for both to be sent in for a test ride. I'm thinking of asking if they can swap the tyres for a set of slicks and buy a pair of nobblies for when off roading. Are slicks on these as wide as nobblies or those thin g-string tyres?

[DanE]

Originally Posted by JAG

Are slicks on these as wide as nobblies or those thin g-string tyres?

You'll be able to get a range of widths, from around 1.2" to 2".

To save swapping typres, semi slick may be a good alternative.

dan

[nickb]

Originally Posted by JAG

Are slicks on these as wide as nobblies or those thin g-string tyres?

I use Schwalbe Big Apple MTB Slicks in the 2.35" version on my Cannondale rigid that's set up for commuting. I run them at around 60-70 psi and they soak up the bumps. Kevlar lined too so no punctures to date