Electrical Help Needed

[deepbull]

drill a small hole in next doors garage then put an extension lead into the next doors garage put the plug back on plug it in {as long as next door has power in there garage} then you have free power!!

[Steven]

Originally Posted by machiavelli

Most DNOs will supply up to 100A single phase. If you don't know the authorised supply capacity of the installation they should be able to tell you. The cable you need depends on the current, length, acceptable voltage drop and whether it is enclosed or clipped to a surface or cable tray and I'm sure there will be an electrician along shortly with the numbers at their fingertips.

If the garage is seperate from the house you need to consider the protection of the cable run - armoured cable is expensive but would you bury anything else? - and earthing - you may have a PME installation and I think the wiring regs have something to say about exporting the DNO's earth.

excuse me for disagreeing 100A single phase is the rating of the cutout not the capacity you can use!!

Large electric welders can be dodgy cos they can cause voltage fluctuations for your neighbor's!!!

[dry suit diver]

Originally Posted by Steven

excuse me for disagreeing 100A single phase is the rating of the cutout not the capacity you can use!!

Large electric welders can be dodgy cos they can cause voltage fluctuations for your neighbor's!!!

partly right, if there is a 100A fuse in the cut out it wont pop until you get close to/just past 150A ( 1.5 time rated current for a BS1361) the service cable is usually 35mm sq coming in so will happily carry the fault current.

and yes there can be voltage fluctuations when welders kick in.


as for the streetlights- its live at the bottom all the time and connected directly to the distributor cable from the area sub usually backed up by a 1000A ACB guaranteed to be big enough to weld from

not that I would advise you to try it ( we need a lightning flaash and a sizzling body smily)



and as for what C&G assignment wouldn't have clue without going in the loft for the college notes.

[machiavelli]

You can use what the DNO agree to. I have recently seen 110A going through a 100A cut out at a small business which has grown a bit in excess of its infrastructure. The DNO are aware and are contemplating how to upgrade the supply. Expensive no doubt but cheaper than the downtime caused by cut out operating. There are smaller capacity cut outs in use, particularly in older domestic premises.

Welders are evil things, but the voltage is allowed to fluctuate - it's 238.8V here now and goes down about a volt when the electric heater under my desk comes on. If the entire street decided to weld at the same time the substation would be in a bit of trouble.

What does Part P have to say about this? Or was the work really completed pre 2004? :-)

[dry suit diver]

Originally Posted by machiavelli

You can use what the DNO agree to. I have recently seen 110A going through a 100A cut out at a small business which has grown a bit in excess of its infrastructure. The DNO are aware and are contemplating how to upgrade the supply. Expensive no doubt but cheaper than the downtime caused by cut out operating. There are smaller capacity cut outs in use, particularly in older domestic premises.

Welders are evil things, but the voltage is allowed to fluctuate - it's 238.8V here now and goes down about a volt when the electric heater under my desk comes on. If the entire street decided to weld at the same time the substation would be in a bit of trouble.

What does Part P have to say about this? Or was the work really completed pre 2004? :-)

part p would indeed apply as its outside the equipotential zone.

wouldn't be easily able to backdate it and get away with it as the colours would be wrong, unless you can get some secondhand stripped out old colour cable then it was definityly done prior to part P

[Sparky]

Originally Posted by dry suit diver

partly right, if there is a 100A fuse in the cut out it wont pop until you get close to/just past 150A ( 1.5 time rated current for a BS1361)

There is a 100a fuse in the cutout if it is a new house, if it is an old house it will usually be a 60a (it may of been upgraded) although if it's really old it could be anything from about 35a upwards.

Originally Posted by dry suit diver

the service cable is usually 35mm sq coming in so will happily carry the fault current.

The old style pilsta (paper insulated lead steel tape armour) service cables ie metal ones were anything from 0.0145 upwards that makes the service cable roughly 4mm or bigger new services are now 35mm concentric cable.

Originally Posted by dry suit diver

as for the streetlights- its live at the bottom all the time and connected directly to the distributor cable from the area sub usually backed up by a 1000A ACB guaranteed to be big enough to weld from.

There are 2 different feed to streetlights the most common are permenant live ones which are fed from a bit of 4mm concentric cable derectly connected to the main they are protected by either a 200a, 315a or 400a fuse in the substation. the second is fed from what we call a fifth core which is switched back at the sub and is usually proected by a 60a fuse.

The best way to get a supply to the garage would be to dig on your service cable and ask someone nicely to run a seperate sevice!

You didn't hear that from me

[Steven]

Originally Posted by dry suit diver

partly right, if there is a 100A fuse in the cut out it wont pop until you get close to/just past 150A ( 1.5 time rated current for a BS1361) the service cable is usually 35mm sq coming in so will happily carry the fault current.

and yes there can be voltage fluctuations when welders kick in.


as for the streetlights- its live at the bottom all the time and connected directly to the distributor cable from the area sub usually backed up by a 1000A ACB guaranteed to be big enough to weld from

not that I would advise you to try it ( we need a lightning flaash and a sizzling body smily)



and as for what C&G assignment wouldn't have clue without going in the loft for the college notes.

partly right - rubbish it is correct!!!!
excuse me again did I mention fuses??
80amp or 60 amp fuse because of the meter rating!!!!
the fuse is only to cover the meter tails!!! through to the dis board yes??

and the usual service cable is 25mm not 35mm 35isusually only used as a looped service i.e. 2 houses!!
and we are only talking modern houses older ones may only have a 30amp fuse-start your welder oh bugger the lights have gone out!!

and this
as for the streetlights- its live at the bottom all the time and connected directly to the distributor cable from the area sub usually backed up by a 1000A ACB guaranteed to be big enough to weld from
is all load of s@@@

[Steven]

Originally Posted by scooby

Hi
i need some help with a few electrical questions

I want to put a bigger power supply to my garage to run some welding equipment,three phase is out of the question so will have to take power feed directly from property feed,the question is what is the maximum feed i will get and what size cable will i need to make a run of approx 28 metres
garage is at the moment fed by a 20 amp mcb which is feeding a 16 amp fuse in the garage
thanks
Stuart

Stuart, you really need to ask your local supplier if you can use your welder because they have the authority to stop you using it if it overloads the local network.
People putting new electric showers likewise overload their supplies and wonder why ther lights go up and down!!!!!

[Charley]

I have a spare 1MVa transformer in the shed,complete with an 800A ACB and about 5 km of 300mm epr hv cable and a couple of jointing kits.

I'll pop it up to you, you just need provide the socket outlet to connect to the ACB.

Hope this will help

Charley

[G man]

FFS you lot, The welder has a 13A plug top. just plug it in and use it.

G.