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Non Diving Posts: Discuss Damp garage- help! in the Non-Diving Related Forums forums: Is it worth getting a dehumidifier for the garage to dry the air, or would it be a waste of ...

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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 14-01-08, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woz

Is it worth getting a dehumidifier for the garage to dry the air, or would it be a waste of electricity? Alternatively how about curtaining off a bit of the garage with poly sheeting (like those strips that you get in industrial buildings) and just dehumidifying that bit?
Sounds like a lot of hassle. My uncle has one of these for his classic car due to the damp in a a garage etc. Welcome to Carcoon Storage Systems the future of car storage and protection The motorbike one might be suitable for your gear. . .
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 14-01-08, 02:18 PM
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I use a dehumidifier, it don't use a lot of electricity but the area does need to have a good seal. If there's a gap under the garage door it will just keep letting in damp air. My dehumidifier is in the conservatory where all my dive kit is, it's bone dry.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 14-01-08, 02:35 PM
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The garage is well sealed- the doors all close against a ridge so there's no gap.
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Old 14-01-08, 02:51 PM
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My advice would be to stop pi**ing in it and use the toilet

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Old 14-01-08, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woz
The garage is well sealed- the doors all close against a ridge so there's no gap.
If it's really sealed up then the dehumidifier stands a chance. Alternately if it's too well sealed up...ie. no ventilation then it might be worth putting a vent in - that'll keep the air moving and should stop mould growing.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 14-01-08, 03:26 PM
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The water is condensing on a cold surface. So get/make a cabinet and
insulate it.

You can even get a small oil-filled greenhouse type bar heater and stick
that at the bottom. Very low wattage and the cuboard will be toasty.

Easiest is a bit of CNS type timber as a frame, whack some w/board on
it and stick a standard door on the front. Solid polystyrene bats get stuck
in the wells made by the framework. You can knock up a 3' x 2.5' full
height cuboard for next to nothing.

Unless you insulate and heat the whole garage, this is the ony way to go.

or ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Is this an internal garage?

If it is then you are most certianly loosing heat through the main door itself,
no matter how tight you think it is.

If you are not parking a car build an isulated stud wall about 1m back.
Just enough to allow the door to open, and throw junk in.

Another door into the main part and I guarantee this will be a LOT warmer
and not just the garage. House benefits as well.

Last edited by TerryH : 14-01-08 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 14-01-08, 04:18 PM
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Sounds like you just need some ventilation. It's effectively the same as an attic space, if it's uninsulated then unless you have good ventilation then you are going to get damp and mould.

A cold, poorly vented space is one of the worst things you can do for encouraging condensation.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-08, 11:04 AM
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It might also have something to do with the 2 feet of water in the inspection pit I found last night...
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-08, 11:14 AM
small strokes fell mighty oaks
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woz
It might also have something to do with the 2 feet of water in the inspection pit I found last night...
So you've got your own indoor pool and want us to feel sorry for you....Posh git
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 15-01-08, 11:24 AM
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Line the walls with 50mm Thermal board. (Just glue it on) Put air bricks front and back if possable and then install a small oil filled radiator.

ATB

Mark


Oh and put a submersible pump in the inspection pit
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