Choosing a bike?

[chrisch]

Hmmmmm.... bearings that loosen.... sorry that and machine built wheels losing tension is just BS. Machine built wheels in my experience run for years. Hand built ones lose tension 'cos they have been badly built. All the wheels I build stay tight for ever and need no maintence (but I was taught by the best there is..) There has been a trend in recent years towards alloy nipples in wheelbuilding and that is stupid. Alloy will break before they get tight enough. The only solution is Locktite. Rubbish, just go brass... (Don't get me started on wheelbuilding, I could bore for England)

Bikes don't need servicing per se; they don't have engine oil to change or air filters. What they do need is routine replacement of worn components and adjustment of wearing parts. A "free" service therefore is the opportunity to sell you the bits that need replacement and to (depending on the store) exaggerate the need for replacement components. Chains and cassettes are high wear items but easy enough to do yourself (you need to buy a chain splitter [sorry Si more to buy ] and a cassette tool if you replace them yourself) Bottom brackets (where the pedals go round) are routine items too and need doing every couple of years (hard riding) or so (again a tool is needed so might be easier to shop change) Head bearings as well, although steel (cheaper) ones last ages while alloy wears out quick.

As a general rule lightweight alloy components wear quick as the metal is softer than steel. Lightweight bits are also more expensive. Shops and enthusiasts bang on about losing a few grams here and there to get the bike down to some lightweight status but most of us would be better losing a few kilos off the beergut - that's a cheaper option

Bike shops are like dive shops, small struggling businesses trying to compete with cheap internet deals. Mostly run by people that love bikes but would earn more money working in tescos. I'm sorry to say I do 99% of my own "servicing" and buy bits off the net (chainreaction and wiggle are good).

One shop I can recommend is Leisure Lakes (who also do internet stuff). They are a franchise and found in a few places including Cheltenham where my mate lives. Their wheelbuilding is even half decent.

I'm sorry, I don't know jack about the area round Royston. You might find some help on a bike forum (try Singletrack - Mountain Bike Magazine) but you will quickly get sucked into the bike thing and find it is just like diving, folks that do and folks that talk and a lot (I mean a lot) of gear heads. The gear heads are great, just like in scuba, all the latest stuff and they know everything. Some of them even ride from time to time

Me, I'm rough and ready. I know the Kona Cindercone 'cos my mate has one up in Coventry. The frame is an Al Murray design and a good one. I know you'll be happy with it, but it probably isn't the best there is. Shimano Deore are reasonable components (the XT are better but twice the price) so you'll be fine. Halfords are crap but they are OK to replace a chain and cassette and so on, many of the lads that work there are actually bike fans. Machine built wheels are OK. Buy them if you need a replacement wheel, just not the el cheapo ones.

Above all just ride the damn thing and enjoy it. Like diving, go dive and bollocks to whether the ScubaPro Mk19 is "better" than the Mares Proton or other such crap.

Chris

[BJ]

My bikes have always been nicked long before they need servicing. The biggest problem I have encountered is the old unfit git on the saddle.

[chrisch]

Originally Posted by BJ

...The biggest problem I have encountered is the old unfit git on the saddle.

You shop at the same place as me then John

Chris

[Tunicates]

I'll agree with most of what Chrisch says there apart from about the wheels and the servicing. New bikes need servicing because everything will bed in and settle from you riding it, just like regs breathing easier after a few dives. Except with bike machinery is subject to much stronger forces than a reg. Once something comes slightly loose (especially the cranks) they dont just stay a bit loose, they will very quickly wear to the point that they'll need replacing. So in the first few weeks and months of a bikes life it is essential that it gets regular services. Especially as bikes are built to withstand the strains of a 13 stone chap. More than that and your bike will wear faster.

Its true that modern machine built wheels are very good, but you should still get them checked over regularly. The Wheels on any new Mtb will not be built for Clydesdale use.

Yes, free servicing gets you into the shop more regularly and gives you a chance to oggle the pretty things ( I dont mean the staff ...unless you're lucky), but it also gives the folks in the shop time to explain to you why your spokes might be breaking......or why that creaking sound needs to be sorted out pronto.

[chrisch]

Originally Posted by Tunicates are Mad

...Once something comes slightly loose (especially the cranks) they dont just stay a bit loose, they will very quickly wear to the point that they'll need replacing. .....

Yes, that's very true and routine inspection is therefore a must.

I guess that is "servicing" in the same way that regulators need inspection. (I service my regs when they go wrong...)

If the shop offers it free I would take advantage of it. I just wouldn't base my purchasing decision on that criteria alone.

Chris

[chrisch]

While we're on the subject (someone shut me up FFS). I should mention routine care. Do not be tempted to jet wash the bike as it will wash the grease out the go-roundy bits and they will wear out double quick. A quick hose off is all that it needs from time to time (about once a year for mine ). Oil the chain regularly - every ride is a good habit and using a water resistant product is best, something like chain wax. Most important keep your tyres properly inflated, you will get puntures otherwise.

Chris

[Getafix]

You can't go wrong with a Kona Cindercone.

I've had one since '95, the classic chromoly framed type (still with some purple anodised bits on it, how mid 90's!) with the rigid project 2 forks so it can be really thrown around..... it is a hard ride however, and getting on for 40 mph down hill off road on forest tracks is distinctly uncomfortable and potentially skin stripping!

Has anyone mentioned a good medical kit???

Giro make good helmets if a little pricey.... get one with a lot of vents if you cycle hard, and a speedo/average/distance display is good for training if you want to get fit.


Alan

[tonhil]

I have a "Thorn Rohloff" A bit pricey some might say.

I have 10K on it in 18 months so I use it a fair bit. It is great for commuting and shopping and touring. Shite for racing of any sort. OK in mud if you change the tyres and ditch the mudguards (ironically).

However it is low maintenance!!! It works as well now as it did when new and it has been ridden regardless of weather and cleaned on the rare occasion.

On a normal bike I would be on my third set of rings/chain by now and it would still not work as well as the Rohloff.

IMO it is streets ahead (pun?) of any other bike I have owned and more than justifies the extra purchase cost.

[nickb]

Originally Posted by big_si

What about this combo. Think this is more the sort of money I'm looking at...

Cateye El530 & Ld1100 - Bicycle Lights - Hope Blackburn Light and Motion Lupine Cateye Bike Lights - Front and rear LED lightsets - Online bike shop Merlin Cycles

I have that set on my commuting bike (augmented by flashing LEDs) and commuting's about all they're good for. I don't need to light up the way, I just need to be seen by other road users.

If you plan on going any faster than pushing the damned thing, anywhere there are no street lights under anything less than a full-moon, you'll need to spend serious money on a front light. I used to use a CatEye Stadium 3 HID (£250) when I rode in the woods at night and, even then, I couldn't hoon along flat-out. A Salvo would be useless, you need more of a floodlight effect. You'll also need a backup: if your light fails when you're 3 miles inside a wood that you don't know blindfolded, you could be dead before anyone finds you.

[big_si]

Originally Posted by nickb

You'll also need a backup: if your light fails when you're 3 miles inside a wood that you don't know blindfolded, you could be dead before anyone finds you.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OO!!!!!!!!!!!! More redundancy!!! It's not cheap this biking stuff, is it!

I will have to make sure I ride in a three so have team redundancy!