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Other Dive Equipment: Discuss Regulating and rectifying outboard leccy output in the Dive Kit and Equipment forums: Well we now have a rather lovely ex-RNLI outboard for the soggy. It comes with a 12V out socket but ...

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Old 08-05-06, 11:14 PM
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Regulating and rectifying outboard leccy output

Well we now have a rather lovely ex-RNLI outboard for the soggy. It comes with a 12V out socket but this isn't regulated or rectified. How would one go about this? There's a bit of room under the engine cowl so it could quite easily be done there with a plug on the engine to power various essential electrics like a massive radio and sub-woofer bass bin. And chav-lights.
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Old 08-05-06, 11:55 PM
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how about a little something like this?

http://www.majorpower.com/newmar/dcpc-nav.html or http://www.majorpower.com/dctodc/maj...ml#MajorVTC120

Would that do what you need?

Last edited by jb2cool : 08-05-06 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 09-05-06, 12:13 AM
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Dunno. The first one looks like a power washer to give you nice clean dc and the second is a converter. I think the leccy that comes out the outboard is dirty and ac so needs rectifying to dc then cleaning to a nice steady 12-14V so that the masive amp that powers the sub-bass woofer and the flashing disco lights doesn't have a sweat.

BTW I may not be joking about the chav lights- in my dodgy wholesaler's chavvy Nova section there are red and green led running lights. The club is sorely tempted 'cos they are waterproof, cheap and incredibly naff.

Am just doing a bit of web work and have Take That on my headphones. They are very gay.
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Old 09-05-06, 07:53 AM
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ah right, i was assumine it was DC (Not sure why i thought that now you mention it ).

What kind or current draw does this have to supply?
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Old 09-05-06, 08:59 AM
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Just buy some nice whoping big diodes that you can bolt to a heatsink for your bridge, and an equally whopping electrolytic capacitor for smoothing, then just select your regulator depending on your current demands.
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Old 09-05-06, 10:18 AM
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like the top one in this diagram. Stick an array of caps in before load to smooth out the line.

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homep...t/elect207.htm
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Old 09-05-06, 02:45 PM
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simonsticky paddles in the seasimonsticky paddles in the seasimonsticky paddles in the seasimonsticky paddles in the seasimonsticky paddles in the seasimonsticky paddles in the seasimonsticky paddles in the seasimonsticky paddles in the seasimonsticky paddles in the seasimonsticky paddles in the seasimonsticky paddles in the sea
Smile

>> nice steady 12-14V so that the massive amp that powers the sub-bass >> woofer and the flashing disco lights doesn't have a sweat.

I just did my first 'club rhib' dives this WE, at Portland. The above is possibly the only improvement that could have been made to my trips out.
(For me, anyway!)

Sounds great, I've been on those 12PM start 'Pumping Music' Thames Barge Trips (Before I discovered Scuba?)
Combined..........................Rapture!

If the music is anything like www.unknownfm.com
( [not at-all gay!] banging out all day here)
I'd be right up for a trip out.
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Old 09-05-06, 04:22 PM
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Lightbulb Any good?

Hi Woz, don't know what the AC output voltage is (can ir be adjusted?) or if you do much electronics stuff (or know someone that does) but here are a couple of regulated linear power supply circuits that should ddo what you want, so long as the AC input voltage is high enough (>18v ac).
Slightly more complicated versions of the circuits posted by JB2COOL.

This is a fairly simple one that gives 13.8v (adjustable) at up to 10amps....



This is a more complicated 20amp one.......



I'd build 'em myself for you, but I'm a bit far away.

HTH
Steve
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Old 10-05-06, 10:30 AM
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*sniff* I just want a magic box I can bolt under the cover of the outboard. Anything that involves soldering irons and home made bodges is likely to drop to bits at sea after a short time.
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Old 10-05-06, 12:43 PM
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you can probably buy something that does this job from a camping retailer or a boatyard. They'll be used to this kind of requirement
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