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| Other Dive Equipment: Discuss Er...Just Gone Nuts on New Kit !! in the Dive Kit and Equipment forums: Just spoke to Andy Hayhurst to ask how the #### he fitted your V-weight without it forcing the backplate away ... |
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| Imported post Hi Bren/Dave thanks for reply, have either of you got a combro b/plate? Safe diving, Steve. |
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| Imported post i've had my hands on one and apart from having to rub down the sharp edges they look ok to me steve. get one ordered! |
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| Imported post Hello, for the v weight I done my own, just bent a V shape with sheet metal and melt some lead, then drilled holes in. The only problem is that is of 6kg and with dry suits gets me un balanced, what is the weight of the on you are using? |
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| Imported post Err..Davey mate, not with you? You not see/read this bit of my original posting??: "......Where as my V-weight went on nay sweat and is currently screwed down with wing-nuts to the rear of my rig between my cylinders AND needs nothing (no holes cut) doing to it!! </span> Quote:
I never for one minute sought to promote anything other than I posted above!? So I don't where you were going with your post? So what exactly are we debating here? The fact that it's not called a 'V-weight' (i.e. its shape?), or what? We can call it 'Emmy-Lou', if it will make you feel better! As I originally said, it's screwed down, without it being forced, on to the threaded bolts between my cylinders and on the rear of my rig!? What part did you not get? I have a weight that's now integral to my rig (who gives a stuff whether it's called a V-weight or 'Aunt Betty'?) and it matters not that it sits to the rear and not between the backplate or has sections cut out to accommodate same. Why would you think there's anything wrong with that? The weight works well and has allowed me to ditch my weight-belt, and we had two good dives on it to day (buoyancy, trim etc. fine) - proof and pudding and all that. :moon2: What Andy actually said last night as we were fitting it was that it doesn't matter a jot where the weight goes. If yours doesn't fit between your back-plate and your cylinders, and instead of carving chunks out of it, thereby losing some of the weight, why don't you just stick it on the back like mine. Your stated aim is to ditch weights off your webbing and harness the same as me mate - I've just managed to do it using that which I originally described. I think I need to give you a call squire as I'm still confused as to what your point was? (Edited by Bren Tierney at 5:40 pm on Feb. 16, 2003) |
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| Imported post Whatever Bren.... whatever.. |
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| Imported post Steady on kids - play nice! |
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| Imported post Hey, there's always the solution I came up to for weight on the back: The D-weight! Will be updating the page when I get around to melting the lead - I've decided that it needs to be made modular, so I'll make a bunch of 1kg weights that can be put on or taken off as needed.. mainly cos (A) I'm overweighted and (B) I'll be using singles later on this year! |
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| Imported post Before I started casting my own v-weights, I used "turd weight". A "turd weight" is made of an old sock and some lead shot. Take the sock and fill with about half a pound of lead shot, secure with a cable-tie, fill again with another half pound of shot and secure with another cable-tie. Keep going and you end up with something resembling a string of short fat sausages. Wrap the whole lot in duck tape and place between the tanks and the backplate. It worked for me. I had somebody make up a mould which I used to cast weights which fit nicely between the bands. Weight is about 2.5kg. If anybody wants to borrow the mould, just let me know and I'll bring it to Anglesey. Bob |
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