poseidon question

[Kate R]

how do i adjust the breathing resistance of my cyklon? zaksherlock sold me this reg, and said that he'd put the breathing resistance up slightly for me as he generally had them set to breathe very light. thing is, it's quite difficult to breathe from compared to my apeks, and it's very noticable as i swap between them on dives, so i'd like to adjust it a little.

i've got the servicing manual, and i understand that it's a question of inserting a screwdriver into the second stage where the hose joins - but i'm not sure whether to turn left or right! could someone enlighten me? i don't want to try trial and error as the next time i'll get to use this reg is in scapa....

cheers, kate

[daz]

Kate,

Service manual here :-

http://wetlands.simplyaquatics.com/manuals/

Should tell you how to adjust it.

Personally if it is OK, just not quite ideal I would be inclined to leave it until you get back and can play around trying it on some shallow dives.

Your call.

Daz

[Kate R]

Originally Posted by daz

Kate,

Service manual here :-

http://wetlands.simplyaquatics.com/manuals/

Should tell you how to adjust it.

cheers daz, but i already have the service manual - it isn't helpful as it tells you to adjust clockwise or counterclockwise according to something you can only test with specific machinery.

Originally Posted by daz

Personally if it is OK, just not quite ideal I would be inclined to leave it until you get back and can play around trying it on some shallow dives.

well, it's ok for the stuff i've been doing but for deeper dives i do really want it to be better. it looks very simple, no different from adjusting a breathing resistance knob on regs that have them on the outside... just want to know which way to turn it!

[jamesp]

From my own Cyklon/jetstream experience, if they are heavy breathers they need stripping and cleaning. They dont like being under used either, and are better with regular use. The condom over the end is also a good idea(cold water kit), keeps the junk out and stops them freezing( I`ve only frozen a cyklon once, but I was at 52M) used them all weathers and temperatures(3c in capenrway) without problems.
Not everybodys fav reg, but I like them.

[jamesp]

[quote=Kate R]cheers daz, but like i said i have the service manual - it isn't helpful as it tells you to adjust clockwise or counterclockwise according to something you can only test with specific machinery.

are you fidling with the second stage deflector here or the first stage interstage pressure(the hex hole in the first stage) if the first suck and see if the second, its probablly safer not to bugger around with it unless you really know what you are doing!

[daz]

Hi Kate,

Oops Sorry, (Yeah ignore the disclaimer - I'd probably actually do the same - Just make sure you can also take the required bits to fine tune if it plays up at Scapa )

OK I've had a look at the manual and it kind of indicate anti-clockwise to me.

See what you think (Hey I could be wrong, but if you turn it quarter a turn anti-clockwise and it is worse then go half a turn clockwise and it should get better )

I think the smaller the clearance then the less the diagphragm will need to flex to open the valve. ie. less breathing effort.

HTH
Daz

P.S Sorry again, don't you just hate the RTFM response

[daz]

Originally Posted by jamesp

are you fidling with the second stage deflector here or the first stage interstage pressure(the hex hole in the first stage) if the first suck and see if the second, its probablly safer not to bugger around with it unless you really know what you are doing!

Hey James,

Now that's a damn clever way to confuse a simple person! (Well me )

So the first is the second and the second is the first

Read what you wrote again

Yep agree though, don't mess with the first stage without a IP guage.

Daz

[MattS]

If you look in the mouthpiece you should be able to see a black plastic sleeve with a letterbox cut in, over the shiny metal cylinder bit. By rotating the sleeve around the cylinder you can adjust the breathing resistance. The more metal that is visible the lighter the breath. When the edges of the letterbox are aligned with the edges of the reg, the breathe is as lite as ity is going to be. The more of the shiny bit the sleeve covers the harder it is to breathe. It don't take a lot of adjustment to go from sucking a thick shake through a straw to hamster cheeks.

If that don't fix it take it to someone that knows.

[wreckweasel]

Kate,


The shutter generally effects both the venturi effect and the cracking pressure (indirectly). If you want to drop the resistance only;

1. remove the hose
2. Press the purge button and hold it in while you.... (IMPORTANT)
3. Wind the orifice anti clock about 1/4 turn at a time.
4. Re-connect hose and breathe it.
5. repeat as needed


If you want, Im happy to do it for you.... just drop me a line.

[Kate R]

Originally Posted by daz

I think the smaller the clearance then the less the diagphragm will need to flex to open the valve. ie. less breathing effort.

Daz

yeah, that's what it looked like to me... i was hoping someone would know for sure! of course i'll be able to adjust it up there, but i didn't want to be popping up 5 minutes into the first dive asking for a spanner and a screwdriver!

jamesp - no, not messing with the first stage - bit beyond me i think. like i said, it's the bit of the second stage that the hose screws into.

i don't think it needs stripping and cleaning.. when zak sold it to me he said 'i've just adjusted it to not breathe so light as most people don't like it that way' so i'm sure it's something pretty simple that can be reversed. zak, help!

MattS - venturi all the way open already. and i'm not taking it into a shop!