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About LinkBacksthey are nitrox compatible to 40% from the box.Originally Posted by kit wrecker
its only in europe that we get shafted. the 1st stage is exactly the same.
A.K.A Capt. Safety
they are nitrox compatible to 40% from the box.
its only in europe that we get shafted. the 1st stage is exactly the same.
Nouvelle Chimp with a lot more dives than posts.
The advantage of the FSR first stage is an extra HP port and neater hose routing for both twins and singles. Internals are very similar and the breathe is as close as makes no difference. The FSR also has a replaceable HP seat, which is a bit of a double edged sword - potential additional point of failure, but it does mean a simple part replacement in the event of an HP seat failure rather than re-machining or replacing the whole body.
It is really down to how much you want to spend. They are both great regs and will work in the conditions you describe. You have to decide if you want to spend that much more for neater hose routing.
Good luck with whatever you decide to get.
Lanny
Lanny
“My deepest and longest dive was over 50m for 3 months, but I was wearing a nuclear submarine at the time.”
New Member
DS4 first stage for cold water. I'd get XTX50 for my left post cause its reversible. The right post could be either.
If you like shiney stuff and have lots of money you could get the more expensive models but the diffrences are purely cosmetic, and you'd be gutted if it got scratched.
As for nitrox - I wouldnt worry to much. 40% out of the box and I wouldnt worry upto about 60%. Beyond this and its pointless having a twinset really.
Last edited by chrisMc; 26-06-09 at 09:42 AM.
New Member
Its only up to 40% for the twins.
Is there much difference between the 40's & the 50 second stage?
There seems to be some great deals going on with these regs in comparison to the 200's etc.
Bill Main ate all my biscuits...
The twiddley knob, which you will twiddle once and then forget about, not worth the extra 50ish quid and can be bought and retro fitted for a tenner
A.K.A Capt. Safety
50s have the twidly nob for tweakng em. the 40s don't I beleive . I might be wrong on that one though
not much in it really they both breathe wonderfully.
New Member
The diffrence is a little knob for the crack pressure (starting a breath) on the ATX50. However it is only a slight fine adjustment. When I first got it I used it and was pleased I could 'tailor' my breathe. Now I wouldnt bother readjusting it after a service. The lever is all you need. Oh and the gross adjustment of crack resistance is done during a service, and this would have a much bigger effect on your breathe.
I'd go off the deal, because there is often very little price diffrence. Its a bit of a toy.
The 200's are quite expensive and very well machined. However fundamentally they do exactly the same. Most of the diffrence is in size and weight, but this doesnt really matter underwater.
Last edited by chrisMc; 26-06-09 at 11:52 AM.
Wannabe Wreckie Techie Diver
DS4's are excellent first stage regs and although many complain about routing of hoses on twins this can easily be sorted by simply angling first stages down slightly and also cutting off the plastic hose protector from the first stage end of the hose. This allows the hoses to be bent further and quicker and as they dont move once in place they wont wear (same as bending 6" SPG hose back on itself in your stage). This is also a good thing to do with all hose protectors when diving in cold water environments as the temp drop can freeze the water trapped inside the cover which will then insulate the hose from surrounding water temp and potentially make it more likely to free flow!
As for second stages, your first stage is the thing that limits the amount of air you can flow so the second stage is really all about how many "bells and whistles" you want. I run 2 * XTX40's on my twins which are the cheaper end of the new range without the crack adjusters and they are perfect. Remember that all adjustments you can make on fancy regs can be done during service or for fine tuning on standard ones - most people don't mess with these things at all once they have them set to their liking so you have little need of spending big bucks on for example XTX200 when XTX40 can do the same! I now run ATX (predecessor of XTX, same compact size, unlike earlier TX range but can only feed from one side which is not an issue) regs on both my single set up and my stage and if buying twinset regs again would go for ATX instead of XTX as it is just as small, just as good, looks a little dated but is much cheaper!
At the end of the day, you pay your money and take your choice. My advice, go for good first stage and cheap second stages and with the cash you save buy a decent light etc.
Cheers
Gar
Last edited by Garspeed; 26-06-09 at 12:38 PM.
captain bendy - team HPDW - airborne member
it can be useful to increase the crack resistance of your backup reg. this stops it gently leaking/free-flowing without you noticing until you unexpected have used far more gas than you expectedyou can then wind the resistance back off if you're going to be breathing off the reg for any length of time
I believe this is particularly useful when scootering as the higher-than-usual water flow rate last the reg can provoke unnoticed free-flows
GRUE - Doing It Differently
Maybe I am wrong, my experience is somewhat limited, but I find the twinset much more "forgiving" in terms of regulators' routing.
I mean that you can find a position for almost any regulator on a twinset, whilst the same is not true if you plan to use two separate first stages on a single tank (where I dive it is common practice to use two regulators on a single 15l).
If you want to use the same set of regulators on a single and on a twinset, I would make sure first that they can be placed comfortably on both posts of the single tank.
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