A Guide to Wireless Networking - Questions & Answers.

[dry suit diver]

Originally Posted by iainmsmith

Having read Bob Cooper's thread from March, I _think_ I know what I'm after, but would be grateful if one of the IT-literate types out there could confirm the following:

I am looking to set up a home wireless network for the following arrangement:
The phone line comes in downstairs
My desktop is upstairs
My laptop will move around.

I currently have a BT Voyager 105 USB ADSL broadband modem (powers itself off the USB port)

My plan:
Laptop: 802.11b/g enabled
Desktop: add 802.11b/g PCI card

Connect modem to wireless router, eg http://www.acernotebooks.co.uk/Netge...UK/version.asp

Switch on...and use (after minimal installation)

Specific questions:
1. Am I right in thinking that the Voyager 105 ADSL modem will happily power itself off the above wireless router?
2. If not, do I need a Wireless Router/Modem instead?
3. Would the above setup allow both desktop and laptop to access the internet simultaneously?
4. Will a software firewall on my computers be sufficient protection or should I be looking at a router with integral hardware firewall?

Thanks in advance.

Iain

1 not sure what you mean
2 best option is get router/modem all in one box
3 Yes
4 I use a router with firewall and also have firewalls on both desktop and laptop.



Belkin stuff is really good and they have free tech support 24hrs a day and will babystep you through the whole installation,getting the network components to talk to each other etc.

[jph6969]

Originally Posted by iainmsmith

Having read Bob Cooper's thread from March, I _think_ I know what I'm after, but would be grateful if one of the IT-literate types out there could confirm the following:

I am looking to set up a home wireless network for the following arrangement:
The phone line comes in downstairs
My desktop is upstairs
My laptop will move around.

I currently have a BT Voyager 105 USB ADSL broadband modem (powers itself off the USB port)

My plan:
Laptop: 802.11b/g enabled
Desktop: add 802.11b/g PCI card

Connect modem to wireless router, eg http://www.acernotebooks.co.uk/Netge...UK/version.asp

Switch on...and use (after minimal installation)

Specific questions:
1. Am I right in thinking that the Voyager 105 ADSL modem will happily power itself off the above wireless router?
2. If not, do I need a Wireless Router/Modem instead?
3. Would the above setup allow both desktop and laptop to access the internet simultaneously?
4. Will a software firewall on my computers be sufficient protection or should I be looking at a router with integral hardware firewall?

Thanks in advance.

Iain

Hi

1) + 2) I am running 3 pcs and 2 laptops on a wireless modem/router and think this is easier than trying to get separates talking to each other.

3) easily

4) Deffinately get a router with firewall built in!!

As said by dry suit diver the Belkin stuff is easy and well supported, which is why I use it

Good luck

Jason

[recurve]

Originally Posted by iainmsmith

Having read Bob Cooper's thread from March, I _think_ I know what I'm after, but would be grateful if one of the IT-literate types out there could confirm the following:



Switch on...and use (after minimal installation)



Iain

Bwahahahahahahaha

Sorry, carry on living in hope

[divingniknaks]

I've got the Netgear wireless router for a desktop and a laptop.

Was great for a while (6 months) , pig to setup tho. Suddenly stopped working and despite frequent fiddling, not worked since.

I may even have to pay someone in spools to come and sort the fecking thing out

Don't know if that helps, but it's my experience so far with them.

(great when it worked)


TA.

[Keiron]

I recently setup a small business network using a D-Link router/ADSL modem, the bloody thing works perfectly for a couple of hours and then just drops the wireless network completely until a complete reboot.

Most reliable systems I've installed have been Belkin, seem to work non-stop foreever.

What do I get if I sort yours out Phil?!?!?!?!

[desertrat]

Phil

I've got the netgear at home myself and its been work 100% for over 12 months now. Shouldn't be difficult to fix, and those spools have my name on em lol. Speak to you tomorrow.

Rob

[Mr T.]

Hi Iain,

have a read of the first post in this merged thread and see if any of the following or collected info meets your needs.


Keep abreast of the latest issues in computer technology with Rick Maybury


Following on from last week's introduction to 'Wi-Fi' technology, this week we'll be looking at the extra hardware you will need to set up a simple wireless network to connect two or more computers together so that they can share an Internet connection and printer and exchange files.

As we saw in part one wired and wireless networks work in broadly the same way and the similarities extend to the principle components, which in a typical small home or office network are the 'router' and the network 'adaptors'.

A network router is a sort of telephone exchange for data, acting as central switcher or 'hub' through which information passes on its way to and from the computers connected to the network. A network adaptor is the simply the interface or connection point between a PC and a computer network.

In a conventional wired network the router is connected to the adaptors by cables; the only real difference with a wireless network is that the Wi-Fi router sends and receives data over a short-range radio link using a device called a transceiver, which communicates with matching transceivers or Wi-Fi adaptors connected to each PC.

There are several possible configurations for a wireless network but the most straightforward arrangement is to connect the router, by a short network cable, to the main PC or 'server'. This will normally be the one with a broadband Internet connection and the resources that the other PCs or 'clients' want to share.

A simple wireless network using a basic Wi-Fi router will do just about everything that most users might want but it has one fairly obvious limitation. The server PC will have to be left switched on all of the time in order for the other PCs to access the Internet. That's because most low-cost broadband/ADSL modems -- the sort generally supplied by ISPs -- use a USB connection to the server PC, which provides the modem with power and software support.

It's not a huge problem and this the kind of undemanding job that's well suited to an old or redundant PC but it would obviously be better if the Internet connection were always available, without having to leave one PC running all of the time.

There are a couple of solutions; the easiest one is to use a combined Wi-Fi router and broadband/ADSL modem; prices start at around £60. The alternative is to use a standard Wi-Fi router with a 'network' broadband modem. These are a little more sophisticated and slightly more expensive than regular USB modems. They have their own power supply and operate independently of the PC. Instead of a USB connection they have a network socket so they can be plugged directly into the router.

That means the broadband connection is always live and available to the PCs on the network, even if the server PC is switched off. The only drawback is that it may be necessary to install extra some software on the client PCs and this will usually be supplied with the router. For more information about changing broadband modems see this week's Top Tip.

There are several different types of Wi-Fi adaptor. The commonest forms are a small module or 'dongle' that plugs into one of the PC's USB ports or a PCMCIA type PC 'card' and these can be used with most laptops. Wi-Fi adaptors can also be built into a computer, either as plug-in card that fits into a spare PCI expansion socket on a desktop PC's motherboard or, in the case of some recent laptops, the Wi-Fi adaptor is incorporated into the motherboard (or a small module fitted inside the case).

Wi-Fi adaptor prices start at around £25 for basic 802.11b (see part one) PC cards and USB dongles; faster 802.11g adaptors are normally only a few pounds more but remember, you will need one adaptor for each PC in the network, except possibly the server, which as previously mentioned can be connected to the router by cable.

It's also worth mentioning that most Wi-Fi routers have several cable network sockets (usually four) so you can mix Wi-Fi and wired network connections. For example, if one of the PCs is physically close to the router it will cheaper and probably a lot simpler to connect it using a cable.

Wi-Fi components are normally sold separately and if you shop around there are some real bargains to be had. However, for those new to wireless networking I strongly recommend buying a wireless network starter kit that will include a Wi-Fi router (or combi router/ADSL modem), one or more matching Wi-Fi adaptors plus any necessary software and cables.

A kit avoids the possible pitfalls of mixing and matching components from different manufacturers. Kits may cost a little more but they are designed with beginners in mind and come with simple step by step instructions. Once you have your network up and running there should be no problem adding extra adaptors from other makers, provided of course they conform to the same Wi-Fi standard.

Jargon filter

ADSL
Asymmetric Digital Subscriber Line - the technical name for a broadband Internet connection using an ordinary telephone line

Dongle
A type of electronic key ('dangling' on the end of short wire) used to unlock some types of software or any small device that plugs into a PC

Transceiver
A combined radio transmitter-receiver

Tip of the week

There's usually no reason why you have to use the broadband modem supplied by your ISP, however network modems work in a slightly different way to USB modems, which are normally set up using a configuration program that runs on the PC to which they are connected. A network modem will have its own local Internet Protocol (IP) address and is configured using an Internet browser. Once the address has been entered in the browser window (usually something like http://192.168.0.100) the modem asks for a password and PIN and then displays a set of web-like menu pages into which your broadband service name and password can be entered.

[StuartC]

Hi Phill,

Have you tried the following:-
1) power cycle the wireless router (that's switch it off and back on again in layman-speak)
2) on your client PC with the wireless card - open the wireless software icon from the system tray, and try to scan for a wireless network. If it finds one, try to join it. The identifier may have changed for some reason.
3) logon to your wireless router and check the settings etc.
4) use MAC address assignment, even if assigning IPs using DHCP. I set a limited range of IP addresses to be assigned, then set the MAC address for each client PC to pick a specific IP from within that pool.

My Buffalo wireless router and card sometimes lose their connections, but number 2 usually fixes it.

In the IP range, I've set it small so that there are only as many IPs available to assign as I have devices on my network. The subnet mask also limits it right down to a very small range of addresses within that network segment.
Ensuring the MAC address is required to pickup one of these IPs means the only way onto my network is to have the MAC address.
Adding additional PCs is a bit of extra work, e.g. for ad hoc laptop wireless visitors, but worth it.

[MartinS]

Originally Posted by Keiron

I recently setup a small business network using a D-Link router/ADSL modem, the bloody thing works perfectly for a couple of hours and then just drops the wireless network completely until a complete reboot.

Keiron
Had the same with my son's PC when I added a wireless card to his PC - it just kept dropping out and only a reboot would fix it. I spoke to the card manufacturer and they said just turn the firewall off - decided against that and found that the software shipped with the card was not up to date. Updated the wireless card software and (touch wood) it's been good as gold since.
HTH
Martin

[Roobydoo]

http://www.pcworld.co.uk:80/martprd/product/NETGEAR/DG834GT/857357

I have read the previous threads about this beastie, and to be honest, feel a little out of my depth. The link above was sent to me - is this a good offer?

I am running BT Yahoo Broadband, if this makes any difference...

Help me go wireless painlessly, pleeeeeeeeeasse!!