| Staying together - for non DIR divers A thread has started on the DIR forum about how DIR divers keep together. I don't want to comment on the DIR forum because it is their church - as it were. It came as no surprise that my first red blob came from a DIR diver ;-)
I guess if you only dive with similarly trained team members a formal protocol is very useful, however I would have missed out on some excellent diving had I not been willing to dive with whomever was around. Personally I think being able to dive safely with virtually anyone is a skill in itself. Anyhow, all I am trying to do here is pass on some of the techniques which I have picked up over the years. If you don't like them, don't use them.
Staying in contact does seem to be a combination of thought and art, possibly similar to navigation. When I first ventured underwater I always used a compass to navigate, but my pilotage skills have increased with experience and I now rarely look at a compass. So it is with staying in contact. Whilst you are building experience you will probably rely on props, procedures and protocols to keep in contact, but with a bit of thought and practise there comes a day when you just do it without thinking; I guess that this is what people mean when they talk about that elusive skill 'awareness'
The buddy line:
Possibly the single simplest method of keeping together. They appear to be out of fashion in sport diving circles but are still commonly used by the forces and commercial divers. It is pretty difficult to get separated when both divers are clipped to either end of a 2m line. Personally I prefer to have one diver holding a loop rather than being clipped on, that way if either diver gets into a rapid the buddy does not have to get dragged up as well. In training a buddy line can provide a confidence boost and provide the first lessons in 'awareness' Generally divers either end of a buddy line have to learn how to work together, otherwise the whole dive is spent untangling the line. Once you have your twin-set, carrying a buddy line will not do your cred any good, so use your Jon line instead - a more technical name for the same bit of rope ;-) I don't use a buddy line too often these days but they have a place.
Communication:
If you ever see an underwater separation happen, it is almost always caused by a lack of communication. One diver changes what they are doing without informing their partner. Most of us are not born telepathic and despite years of trying (anyone remember the Tomorrow People) I still have not learnt to do it ;-)
Keep within arms length when moving:
Just imagine that you are both swimming along and one of you gets caught up. You need to quickly make your partner aware before they swim off into the gloom and the simplest way to do that is grab hold of them. That way neither of you is going anywhere until the entrapment is sorted. Maybe you want to stop to look at that rare fish, or pick up the knife your buddy just dropped. Tactile contact will get your partners attention without you having to swim in front of them and lose site of what it is your trying to look at.
Don't move without a signal:
Another very common reason divers separate is that one changes direction without informing the other. So make a habit of signalling your buddy and waiting for his confirmation before you move.
Slow down:
This one is dear to my heart. As an inexperienced Sport Diver I was once buddied with a very fit and very tall builder. We managed to circumnavigate the Kyarra in a single no-decompression dive. Apart from being knackered the only other thing I remember about that dive is trying to get close enough to my buddy to tell him to slow up. I had my revenge by making him stay down on one of the Valentine tanks for 90 mins ;-) The thing to realise is we don't all fin at the same rate, so try to agree a rate you can both fin at. Should you happen to find your buddy swimming faster than you are comfortable with, grab his fin before it goes out of reach. It will slow him down or he will look back expecting to see a seal.
Stay in view:
I don't know about you, but the thing I hate most is a buddy who swims above and behind. It is very difficult to look up and back comfortably. Sometimes however you find yourself in front the group and they are in no rush to come alongside you. Bending down and looking between your legs is fairly easy. Rolling onto your back is a little more difficult but can be perfected with practise. A complete barrel roll works quite well but some people find it disorienting.
Torches:
A double edged sword. A decent torch used well is a good communication tool. Most useful in dark situations, but not always as effective in silty conditions. Use the torch in your buddy's field of view rather than pointing it directly at him. A wide beam aimed slightly ahead not only lights the way but saves your buddy having to move his head to confirm you are there. A torch angled down over a hand sign both illuminates the signal and casts a big shadow. If you need to let go of a torch which floats beam up it is often better to turn it off rather than have it destroy your night vision.
SMB Lines:
There have been many separations resulting from divers losing each other during ascents in currents. Most could have been avoided if the divers had thought to use their SMB line as a point of contact. One diver reels and the other diver ascends, either making a loose OK round the line or by hooking a finger onto the line. Problem solved you can't drift apart.
Shot Lines:
There is really no excuse for losing your buddy descending a shot line. Again a loose OK sign or a finger hooked over the line is all you need to keep in contact. If I happen to be in front I will often descend backward or simply pause every 5m or so until my buddy catches up. If I am above a short sharp yank on the line will get my buddy's attention without moving the shot. One word of caution, permanent shot lines often have fishing hooks embedded in them so be careful on lines you have not just set yourself.
Shot lines again:
Surface separations commonly happen in current because the divers are faffing on the surface giving all and sundry OK signs. Consider using the shot as a Rendezvous Point. Get in the water, focus on the shot and do all the OKing once your firmly holding on to the line. You may even agree that your RP is on the shot at 3m which avoids all that bobbing up and down. You need to agree this with your skipper but many prefer it to having to pick divers up after they have drifted past the shot.
Wrecks:
A group of divers on a small wreck can soon lead to silt being kicked up. I was diving a good 5 years before I actually saw the Countess in Portland harbour ;-) Many wrecks have rails and edges which you can use as a reference. Keep to the edges and never change direction without first making sure you have everyone together. The same technique can also help a return to the shot. Remember which edge the shot was on and then orient yourself with it.
Wrecks and rocks:
Try not to hide yourself from your buddy's view. You may only be a meter away but if there is a rock or a plate between you and your buddy you might as well be a mile apart. If you are going to drop into the hold or follow that cuttle fish around a corner let your buddy know - even better take him with you.
Learn to count:
This one is for group diving. All the above points are still valid, but additionally count the divers so you know everyone is there and everyone has the message.
Drifts:
Keep in mind that the guy with the reel and SMB is going to find it hard to do anything but get dragged along. If you don't have the reel think of it as your responsibility to keep in contact. Chill out, take it easy and avoid finning with the current. You can still have your freedom, clip your buddy line off on the SMB line and you have a couple meters to play with - great for scalloping.
Reacquisition:
So you have lost your buddy. No doubt you learnt in training to spend a minute looking and then make your own way to the surface. But maybe you could use that minute more usefully than simply revolving on the spot reducing any vis you happen to have.
Use your minute wisely:
Ascend a little, this will often get you out the murk that has been kicked up. Look for your buddy's bubbles, often a good way to find the guy who dropped in the hold or followed the cuttle fish behind a rock. Use your torch, while you are pirouetting a few meters off the bottom shine your torch out and down, your buddy might just see it. Turn your strobe on - strobes show up for quite a distance even in very silty conditions. Try to think where you last saw your buddy, if it is safe to do so, swimming a reciprocal will often bring you both back together.
When to move when to stay still:
Once separated if you both stay in the same place the chances of getting back together are a little remote. But if you both go looking for each other you could easily end up going in opposite directions. So a couple rules of thumb. If you were stationary the last time you saw your buddy and you have not moved, stay where you are, hopefully your partner will work out that he swam off without you and return. If you last saw your buddy whilst you were stationary but you have since moved, retrace your steps to the last point you were in contact and wait there. If you think you lost your buddy at a junction, return to the junction and wait.
Drifts:
If you are both drifting the chances of finding each other are quite remote. Get a mark on the surface as soon as you can, if you don't already have one, and ascend in a safe, steady manner.
Learn to deploy your DSMB unassisted:
Having to ascend on your own is bad enough, there is nothing much to think about than all the nasty things that may have befallen your buddy. But having to wait on the boat while a buddy meanders to the surface without a mark can reduce hardened divers to gibbering heaps of jelly. Don't put them through it, get your delayed up promptly and let everyone on the boat know you are all right.
That is about it. I hope it helps.
Last edited by MattS : 13-08-04 at 08:48 AM.
Reason: Removed the offensive word from the title.
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