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| Torches: Discuss Which Umbilical Torch? in the Dive Kit and Equipment forums: Know that this has come up before but am after an Umbilical (have spoken few YDs about getting one at ... |
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| Have you seen the thread in the DIR forum about torches? I posted becasue I was having the same thoughts and saw a few new ideas at Capernwray on Saturday. Sent you a PM about the Dive Show. Digs. |
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| I bought the Halcyon Proteus 3 earlier this year, fixed head. Not only was there a big difference in price between the fixed and the focusable one, I thought that the one with the focusable head, had a cold spot in the centre. Although, this may have been due to the person who was demonstrating the lights at the time. The longest burn time I´ve had, was 60 minutes on a night dive...and it was still very bright after the dive. I´m still new to diving, but I can say that the Goodman handle is very comfortable, and does allow you to handle other pieces of equipment whilst holding it. I believe new batteries cost around 30 pounds, whilst bulb replacement may be in the region of 70 pounds, but I may be wrong... All the best... Pete. |
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| Hi have AndyP's Green force A12 LED Tristar umbilical, 3Watt power but 30 Watt brightness. Its quite dim above 10m in bright sun light but works a treat below 10m or in dark/night dives. The White light is a little off putting at first but its great now, infact I like it. The burn time on a full charge (of 3 - 4 hours charging) is around 30 - 40 hours, though I've not timed it. Burn time good enough for a livaboard with no charger. I have also seen that Greenforce now do a 50 Watt equivalent (5 Watt actual). Green force sell splitters so you can put two light heads on, one Halogen say and one Tristar, so you have long burn times (LED), but a bright spot (Halogen) if you need it on the same dive. I've not persoanlly heard the negative things said about Greenforce torches and would welcome a balanced view. Dave C |
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| Torches I have a Green Force twin battery Arrowwith a Pro head so the bulbs are interchangeable 25, 35 and 50 which are cheap in B&Q. The issues I have is changing the bulb, the beam is very bright but quite wide and attaching onto my single cylinders and moving it between dives on a boat is a bit of a pain. I have bought the black plastic retaining clips. I have one set on my twins which makes this less of a problem. I also have a fixed beam Proteus which is great, attaching to the harness is easy, a weight belt buckle keeps it in place and the spare umbilical tucks in nicely. For me it's horses for course, my single cylinder diving is very much DIR/DIS driven but my technical diving is still TDI driven though evolving slowly, I still use stages on both sides - I tried the Proteus on the right side where it should be and it was'nt comfortable though that might change in the future.
__________________ Paul Chard If you can read this thank a teacher, because it's English thank someone who served! http://www.yorkshire-divers.com |
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| Proteus 10W fixed head, lead acid batterey £340 list but haggle at the show. You will not regret it. ATB Mark Chase
__________________ Mark, dispite the fact your a Heron shagging tosser I agree with you , Steve S 10/04/08 ATB as most people will tell you, means Always Talking Boll@cks. My responses to threads should be treated accordingly All The Best Mark Chase Screw the force Luke, use the VR3 |
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| Caving or cave diving? For caving, there aren't many lights that work especially well as dive lights and vice versa. For cave diving you want a fairly long burn time, nothing less than two hours, preferably more. My own preference is for halogen, at 80p per 50W bulb as opposed to £80 for a 18W HID speaks for itself. Caves are harsh environments. I'm not a fan of LED for primary lighting, I find the light too diffuse and it doesn't penetrate as far. In cave diving you need to be able to focus the beam for different conditions, you can't do this with a LED. That said, all my back-ups are now LED. My own preference is for AUL www.dpvrepair.com I have used these for ten years without any trouble. I also like Sartek too but expensive. I've had a lot of cheap lights and you get what you pay for. Lights I didn't like: Custom Divers (poorly fitting lids, dodgy reed switches and recently had one go boom), JMD (leaked in the shallows but fine deep), Halcyon (variable build quality), Niterider (some models have very unreliable switches in deep water) Avoid anything that has a reed switch. They are a pain, they are fragile and unreliable. Fitting a new one is a nightmare. Similarly anything where you twist the light head. Again the reed switches are fragile and depending on the design you will kink the wires in the umbilical which will eventually fail. Waterproof toggle switches are best as on AUL & Sartek. The battery should be accessible. Some cannisters are sealed and only have a charging port. When the battery eventually dies it makes changing it a problem. Carrying a spare battery pack is often easier than recharging on a trip. I check the voltage on mine often too so you need access to do it. Screw fitting lids can jam up if you take them deep (Dive Rite), they are also easily cross threaded (Scubapro's Speleolight). SLA batteries are cheap (about £25 to make up a 14Ah pack) but big and heavy. They are however reliable and simple. NiMH is more expensive (about £90-100 for a pack to fit my Spectrum 14) but give very long burn times. They can be temperamental and don't give any warning that the battery is low on power -- they just switch off. Cheers, Stuart
__________________ Deep air might be a legal drug but it won't keep you up clubbing all weekend "What kind of creature bore you... Was it some kind of bat... They can’t find a good word for you... but I can... TWAT." John Cooper Clarke http://www.snp.org |
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| Torches I use a Greenforce F2 battery and either a Tristar LED head or the mighty 18w HID Impact head which has a beam that can be focussed. The LED has a burn time of over 40 hours and is great in murky conditions. The white light takes a little getting used too and is great for close up work. Using the HID I have completed two 50 min dives before the battery gives out. |
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