Green Force F2 battery - soldering question

[ShinyD]

The used Green Force I took out for its first dive on Saturday failed to operate and having worked out how to get into the battery canister I can see why now.



As (hopefully!) can be seen from the photo, one of the battery tags has broken, and what's not obvious is that it's not a new break. It's broken and has been badly repaired in the past, which is why it's failed again. Another two batteries have also been resoldered, but the connection still looks ok between those.

As the guy I got it from doesn't seem to be around here any longer, and I rather stupidly deleted the PM with his address on it I'm rather stuck.

So, with new F2 batteries listed as £175 I was wondering whether this can be properly repaired? I'm quite skilled and experienced at soldering, but have never attempted batteries before.

Any words of wisdom from the collective?

[turbanator]

If it were mine and assuming that you solder as well/badly as I do

I'd put a small link of sufficient guage wire in, then you will give yourself a bit of working space and only need to worry about the temperature of one battery at a time.

r
P

[mala]

when the repair has been done i would consider bonding the 2 seperate packs together some how.even a small movement between the cells will stress the joints again.
best of luck.

[edward]

Hi Dave

The wire link thing may work.

I would also suggest speaking to rob lumb at Lumb Brothers, he is really helpful, and is the UK Greenforce importer.

cheers

Paul

[ShinyD]

The key question with the wire link issue is what gauge wire. I'm not sure what current these lamps draw and I can't remember, in the case of batteries connected in series, whether the draw current is seen equally at every part of the circuit (I think it is).

I guess a piece of standard 13 amp wire will do it, but then there are resistances to think about and the possibility of creating hotspots.

There's no question of being able to shrink-wrap the battery bundle as they're such a tight fit inside the delrin cannister as it is. Whoever did it before managed to tear the cover on one of the batteries and wrinkle it up inside, so it shows it's a tight fit.

[TonyD]

Originally Posted by ShinyD

The key question with the wire link issue is what gauge wire. I'm not sure what current these lamps draw and I can't remember, in the case of batteries connected in series, whether the draw current is seen equally at every part of the circuit (I think it is).

I guess a piece of standard 13 amp wire will do it, but then there are resistances to think about and the possibility of creating hotspots.

There's no question of being able to shrink-wrap the battery bundle as they're such a tight fit inside the delrin cannister as it is. Whoever did it before managed to tear the cover on one of the batteries and wrinkle it up inside, so it shows it's a tight fit.

If you have a model car shop near you, you should be able to get some copper bar tags to solder to the batteries.

As to being tight in the case, both my F2 packs have plastic or silicon tube to hold the packs in the midle of the canister and I'm sure the packs are shrink wraped. Is this a pack somebody has made as a replacement ?

[ShinyD]

Originally Posted by TonyD

If you have a model car shop near you, you should be able to get some copper bar tags to solder to the batteries.

As to being tight in the case, both my F2 packs have plastic or silicon tube to hold the packs in the midle of the canister and I'm sure the packs are shrink wraped. Is this a pack somebody has made as a replacement ?

Thanks Tony - l'll try the model car shop up the road As I've said, this isn't a new break. It's been repaired before, so I'd guess that any shrinkwrapping was removed - usually the plastic type stuff is very thin anyway.

I suspect the batteries are original as they are industrial batteries and not the common type that are easily purchased. Just a suspicion though

On a side note, I did manage to connect the two parts with a croc clip and a brief test of the torch proves it to be brighter then a bright thing, so at least I know the head is working

[essexbloke]

you didnt buy that from a new zealand chap did you?

[ShinyD]

Originally Posted by essexbloke

you didnt buy that from a new zealand chap did you?

Yes...and I'm showing huge restraint by saying no more...

[essexbloke]

Originally Posted by ShinyD

Yes...and I'm showing huge restraint by saying no more...

mate i know what you mean he tryed ripping me off once!!!!