Croatia

[Steve L.]

As part of our Grand European tour, Big Neill and myself decided that the 2005 leg would be in Croatia, before it got too commercial. Well, we need not have worried. It`s more likely to turn into Monaco than Malaga.

Unfortunately, Neill had an operation a couple of weeks before the trip and was advised not to dive. As part of his recouperation he came anyway, to sunbathe and attend to my kit.

We chose to stay on an island, just off the coast between Split and Dubrovnik called Korcula. Apparently, the island was the birthplace of that famed explorer, Marco Polo. There are a couple of diver operations on Korcula. We went with Croatia Divers, based in the little town of Vela Luka.

Getting there.
We flew with Excell Airways from Gatwick to Split. You have to choose your flight carefully to coincide with the ferry to the island. We had about a four hour wait. The ferries only run a couple of times a day. If you miss it, then you could have an unscheduled overnight stay in Split. The bus service from the airport to the harbour is frequent, takes about 30 mins and costs about £3. The car ferry to Korcula takes about 2.5 to 3 hours, or there is the option of a fast catamaran which takes about 1.5 hours. Both cost about £3 for a foot passenger.
Unfortunately, there did`nt seem to be any taxis in Vela Luka, and after a bit of confusion about which hotel we were booked into, and some dragging of luggage around the town, we got settled in.

Accomodation.
We stayed at a small hotel on the sea front. (There are only four hotels in the whole town). The room was small, with two single beds, a small TV, en suite and a balcony with a view. It would probably rate as a 2 star in the UK. The rooms were clean, beds were made and fresh towels every day. Breakfast was a bit restricted (cheese omlette or ham and eggs). There was a bar and restaurant attached. Would you believe the rate was the princely sum of £10 per person per night ?

The diving
The dive centre was about a mile walk from ther hotel. My dive kit was picked up from the hotel by the dive centre staff and transported over by car. Neill and I walked over every morning, which was a pleasant start to the day. We also walked back after the dives, obviously stopping for a beer here and there at the numerous cafe/bars on the sea front. As you would expect, the water was crystal clear, but had not yet warmed up to it`s maximum temperature. I started off with a 5mm semi-dry and hood, but soon added the 5mm shortie that accompanied it.

If you look at a map of the island, you`ll see that there are endless diving locations. All of the diving was done from a spacious 8mtr+ rib. There are a few shore dives, but access to the sea is restricted because of the lack of roads that run near to the water. I won`t bore you with all the details, but there are caves, drop off`s, a few wrecks and dumping grounds. There ar`nt massive shoals of fish, but you will see octopus, seahorses, congers etc.

One thing that is needed is a Croatian Diving Licence, purchased through the dive centre at a cost of about £10. If you want to do your own thing, a proper licence costs about £200 so I am told.

Non-diving things
Food and drink are cheap. A half litre of beer costs about £1.40 and a 14in pizza around £3. One place does a 3 ft pizza at £6. There did`nt seem to be any traditional Croatian dishes. They do lots of sea food, but anything else seems to be Italian, or their idea of a foreign traditional dish (Schnitzels, Goulash etc). Having said that, it was cheap and edible. It`s not the ideal place for a family with young kids. The town is very uncommercialised, and apart from eating, drinking and visiting some local caves, not a lot happens.

Would I go back ?
Yes. The place is enchanting and unspoilt. Croatians don`t speak much English, just enought to get by with English speaking tourists. One evening get together saw twelve of us having a drink around the table, from 10 different nationalities. If you want cod and chips, roast beef, curry or such like, then go somewhere else, you won`t find it in Korcula.

[daz]

Great trip report Steve,

I was hanging on your every word

Daz

[bubs]

Short and simple? like it!

[resting rifleman]

viz was poor then!

[kath2407]

How fast is he typing now in the hope that none of us have noticed!!!!!

K XX

[Robert]

Thanks for the report - spent many excellent weekends in Croatia when I was working over that way.


Robert

[thewisestfish]

sounds amazing - I really can't wait now 'till September when I go.

[Spike Jackson]

I've been to Croatia and I must say I agree.

[Steve L.]

Did`nt take you lot long to start taking the piss.

As it `appends, I hit the return key by mistake and sent off the thread. Then the missus said tea was ready so I had that and came back and finished the report by way of editing.

Anyway, it`s all there now, (and just a distant memory and a credit card bill)

Steve.