Estoril, Portugal

[chrisch]

The missus had a business meeting in Lisbon, so time to search the 'net for dive places... Hmmm.. Portugal is not big on the internet then

We had a half-day free before the meeting so the obvious thing was a drive down the coast to the resort town of Estoril. There's a large marina (actually in the town of Cascais, Estoril's Coast / Costa de Estoril, Portugal - Tourism Information but if you can find where one ends and the other starts you're doing well) and a dive shop with a RIB. So day one looked good. I had the following day free and wanted to look at Sesimbra, which is supposed to have some good diving (several of the Lisbon shops use that port) and Setubal, which is a big port. The atlantic coast was blown out and the dive shop I had managed to find and contact on the 'net was unlikely to be actually diving.

With the whole day to kill I set off to the ports and began my search for a dive shop or two. By three in the afternoon I had come to the conclusion that no-one in Portugal dives.. I had found nothing. Then I got side-tracked by some fantastic sea cliffs (Cabo Espichel) Picture of exposed to the west sun set, the dino trail! Cabo Espichel, Portugal

Although it had been a pleasant enough day's driving and discovery the choice of dive shops was one - the one from the day before. I dropped in to book us up for the Saturday morning and headed back to the hotel for evening meal.

Friday morning I went to Estoril to find a hotel for the night. Kelly's company had been paying while she was working but the weekend was on our tab. Estoril may be a popular destination for package tours but there are no cheap hotels. We ended up in the Sana at €80 for the night. Despite being on the sixth floor the road noise from below was terrible and we had a crap nights sleep.

We arrived at the shop Saturday at nine as per the instructions. The shop was closed and the marina quiet (well by Portuguese standards ) At ten past the guy turned up and we introduced ourselves (I had spoken to his assistant) We were down on the sheet and the start time clearly marked at 9.30

The shop rents out kit and we struggled into wetsuits, a novelty for me - the first time I have dived "wet" in the last 10 years. Two other people had joined us and after a few hellos we set off in the big RIB for "unknown destination" to be decided after a look at the viz. The shop owner, Franciso, was hoping to make a dive off a small cape, but this was not possible due to sea conditions so we took second best a small wreck that had beached in the 50s.

The wreck bears the full brunt of the atlantic storms every winter and is therefore very broken as it lies at just 8m. Its not particularly big either although I guess quite a bit is beneath the sand and rocks.

We dropped a grapple in the wreck and had two briefings, one in English one in Portuguese. Both the guys at the dive shop spoke very good English and the owner was a very knowledgable guy - an RB diver and TDI instructor. The briefing gave us all the info needed. Kelly and I had kitted up quickly and were allowed to set off first.

There was not any real current but the anchor line was tight from the wind and ran at a steep angle. After about a minute pulling myself down I check the computer and was still at 3m. The viz was about 3m so now I couldn't see the surface or the wreck. A quick check and there was a dark shape behind me so carry on. In true "English" style the wreck appeared suddenly out the gloom and I dropped off the line and nipped up the weightbelt while waiting for Kelly.

The dive was just like Cornwall. Purple seaweed and snakelocks covered the wreckage and a mass of starfish and anenomes were the main life on the wreck. Bream swam though the openings and into the safety of little hideaways just like Pout. Apart from the fish species it could have been Polperro or Penzance.

After 25 minutes the cold water was starting to get to us. If possible I would take a drysuit. The water temp was just 13C. We picked our way along some cabling that marked the edge of the site and was now so overgrown it looked like rock apart from its shape. It ended back at the anchor point and we headed up. Total BT 30 minutes, max depth 8m. As we slowly followed the line up the viz cleared. At 2m I could clearly see all the main bit of the wreck - most annoying as we had plenty more air but we were now too cold.

Not brilliant but a very nice little dive. The sales-pitch of "you come tomorrow?" met with a smile and a definate yes.

The dive shop had a local guidemap and we decided to try the Holiday Inn "Express" out on an industrial estate. Hopefully not so noisy. It was a good choice and we had the first decent nights sleep since we arrived. (The Lisbon Sofitel at €160 a night was like kipping under a motorway bridge, but with posh fluffy pillows) The "Express" doesn't have a resturant so we ate in the shopping centre, but it was OK...

Sunday morning and we arrived a bit later - nine means half past - I remember.

There were more of us and several locals who were "regulars". And an Ozzie woman who had done a course with the shop (she was there on a yacht doing a European tour). It was hoped to do the imaginatively named "Cabo da Roca", which is (oddly enough) a rocky cape...

It was a good 20 minutes in the RIB. The big atalantic swells made the site a no-go but it was one of the most impressive things I have ever seen from a RIB watching 2-3m high waves break and curl and crash into the cliffs. Needless to say there are lots of surfers in the area.

After a couple more viz checks we ended back up near the mouth of the marina. The guys were very apologetic about things and the "long ride". But I was happy, I had enjoyed every minute of the ride and the spectacular coastline.

We dropped in to the site which was supposed to be some big canyons and boulders. The swell meant you were moving about 3m back and forwards without finning and the viz was about a meter. We found a patch of sand and just enjoyed the ride. After 20 minutes boredom set in and we canned it. Rubbish. Back on the boat more appologies from the staff. But that's diving and we had enjoyed the day all the same.

When we got back to the shop it started to piss down and boy was it cold. Stripping out of a wetsuit in the rain is not fun. I hope I never have to dive wet again...

We went to settle up and because of the shit viz they only charged us for the RIB and the air - the gear rental got waived. Top people. If ever you are in the area I thoroughly recommend these guys - the diving is what it is but their service and efforts were 200%. They do deep stuff too and have Helium and twinsets in the shop.

http://www.extremedive.com.pt/ingles2.swf

Sunday afternoon I took Kelly to see the sea cliffs and coming back we found a dive shop in Sesimbra.... Oh well, next time.

Chris

[divegyrl]

Very nice report Chris,
I was in Lisbon last week also, but working all the time except for the day I took my Mum on a tour!

I have to say I love Estoril & Cascais, next time I'm over there working I must bring my kit!

Thanks for the link!

[chrisch]

I would just take a membrane suit if you have one. The hire kit we had was fine it was just the cold TBH. They (thoughtfully) lent us a couple of pool suits to wear under the wetties and that was much better, so ironically Sunday was not so cold but shit viz and Saturday a good dive but freezing yer nuts off (obviously not yours B )

Easy car parking in the marina and some great cafes and eateries for lunch too. Everything a dive centre should be.

I liked Lisbon - not at all what I had expected. I would go again (if someone else were paying )

Chris

[Dizzydiver]

Originally Posted by chrisch

I liked Lisbon - not at all what I had expected. I would go again (if someone else were paying )

Chris

Ahhhh finally a place we agree on.....but yes I also agree only if the boss is paying!

Very good dive outfit. Great people, extremely helpful, not to mention friendly.

[StuartC]

nice report Chris.

We stayed in Estoril in 2004 during the Euro Championships and dived with Francisco too.

Andrea had recently completed her AOW in the Red Sea and had a mixture of Capernwray and Sharm day boat diving experience, but this was her first RIB diving and our first dive as a buddy pair together.

Viz was pants and was quite swelly, but I guess that's the Atlantic coast...

Francisco swore blind the viz had been 30m the day before, but I think he was gently pulling our leg!

Top service and a nice bunch of folks to dive with on the Sunday, most seemed to be regulars and 2 guys were playing chicken with their SPGs on their safety stop, which appeared to be part of their regular Sunday gig. Unfortunately, somebody dropped their wetbelt as we unloaded the rib in chest deep water and he couldn't find it in the sand.

Can't remember the name of the hotel we stayed in, but it was the very tall one raised up on the cliff near to the square, even on the 12th floor the road noise was particularly bad on the night that Portugal knocked us out of the European Championships on penalties...

the bus journey back after the game was on the uncomfortable side as the streets were packed with one or two locals celebrating...