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| Underwater Video & Photography: Discuss Looking for Advice in the General Diving Forums forums: Hi Guys, When at the recent Brum Dive Show, I seem to have purchased (it's easier if I quote ... |
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| Imported post point it at interesting things, or nekked ladies!! |
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| Imported post I have the MX5 II with YS-20A Strobe. Also have close up lens. I used the MX5 last month in th Red Sea (only got my strobe at the dive show at the w/e). As I understand it our camera's are pretty similar (although I think yours is the posh one!). It is pretty much a point and push camera, but pretty good results none the less - (I'll mail you a couple of mine - our perhaps I'll get them posted here?). I use 400 ASA film and therefore can use it at distance also. You want to get as close as you can to your subject as otherwise will get lots of background. The flash also takes about 6 or 7 seconds to recharge each time, so watch for your wee light as I ended up with a few blue (colour, not subject matter!!!) piccies due to my impatience. You will, no doubt, have the same spare o-rings and o-ring grease. I just followed usual instructions re: soaking, drying, then greasing the o-ring. Will look foward to seeing your pictures of the Maldives!! (still v.jealous :yuck:) |
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| Imported post Hi Bren - welcome to the world of UW photography. I used to have the MMEXII and my best results in the maldives were using the following: 100ASA film (FUJI Superia was good)and get loads of it - you will waste a lot of it - so does everyone!!) Small aperture (F11/16/22) for more depth of field (more depth of focus) 1/60 or 1/125 shutter speed Always use the flash Check distance to subject and set it (remember that UW things will appear closer) Get a Wide angle lens !!! Get close, get low and aim high - this uses the natural light from the sun and creates a more scenic pic Backscatter shouln`t be a problem this time of year but if you can, detatch the strobe and aim it at the subject at an angle of 45 degrees from the side - remember that whilst the camera lens will see apparent distance, the strobe must be aimed at ACTUAL distance - example distance seen is 3 foot, aim strobe for 4 foot Bracket (take the same pics with different aperture and exposure settings) Dont worry when it goes wrong. Go for close up shots that are stationary - more chance of better pics Ask the DM to point out anything interesting - he will slow down the dive to let you take more pics Grease them O rings!!! Most importantly, when you get in the water get your buoyancy right before you start messing with the camera - this will save air, get you better shots and let you focus on them. Post the pics on this site!! Have a great time - any more info contact me - perhaps share a cold water photo dive when you get back. Cant wait for Kuredu in Feb. Safe diving John |
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| Imported post By the way - if you want to try out the kit, I`m off to Cape this Saturday. Forgot to add - try the kit out here first to get used to it !!!! |
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| Imported post Thanx, 2Tanx, Fi and Kirky, 2Tanx - That's the intention!! Fi - Thanks for the very sound adveice and observations!! Kirky - I think I'll print that little lot off and take it with me. Not gonna be able to make the Cape tomorrow as will be sleeping off a perfectly serviceable hangover form tonight. Cheers again all. Just hope I can get at least one photie where: A) The subject is distinguishable from the general malaise surrounding it. B) I don't have to keep asking "can ya guess what it is yet?" C) My thumb and/or finger are not obscuring the best shot I'm ever likely to take...doh!! Will take up all the advice on the shutter-speeds/aperture and film types. I'll probably still make a James of it, but hey, nothing ventured eh...? Cheers, |
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| Imported post Take a look at this site, its full of information about underwater photography... http://freespace.virgin.net/andy.aj/index.html |
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