P-Valve Advice?

[Dominic]

Originally Posted by [b

Quote[/b] ]but.... the O3 does allow you to attach the sheath in relative privacy beforehand, then you simply click the snap connector to the tubing and you're good to go, rather than having to do it all whilst standing around in a car park...

But for a few quid you can buy those same parts yourself and fit them to a nice balanced P-valve and have the best of all worlds. I'm sure the O3 works fine, but it does kinda rely on you being 'ready to go' as soon as you open the bolt. And for the first few times, at least, it really ISN'T that easy...

If only I had the download cable around, I could take some pix with my digicam of my modified valve..

Not of anything that would interest Porg tho..

[Dan]

If you can buy the parts on their own could you not convert the o3 valve to make it balanced? I am assuming its only a case of adding a check valve to it or do they charged silly money for the valve on its own?

Odds are I should be ok on the dive itself its on deco where I will most likely be needing a pee. Will there be a big diffence between using a balanced or non-balance at 6m?

[wreckweasel]

I use an O three non balanced, admittedly only down to 80m so far, but hey <shrugs>

I fail to see why you *need* a balanced valve.

When you descend, the tubing just squishes.. and no, you dont get squeezed. I guess in theory, when you open it to pee, sea water should rush in to equalise the tube... but I've never felt it (even at 80m, 1/9 of the original air would remain in contact with your precious possession).

To me, it just seems like a whole lot of extra potential failure points and COST that you dont need.