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Yes I know, we don't often use them u/w but, today, we all have cameras (unless we're troglodytes) that work above water as well as underwater.

So here is another in the series of (unashamedly) copied, or rather URL'd, articles from my favourite camera supplier.

I haven't read all of it yet (I will and soon as I stop pontificating) but it strikes me as a very useful article from what I've seen thus far. :)
 
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Nice article. And you are right about B&H being good, I have ordered plenty from them in the past. It's crazy that you can get something from the states faster than from the UK, despite living here.

I have a couple of Polarizers, some ND, and a couple of ND Grads.

The Polarizers can really make clouds 'pop', whilst darkening the sky at the same time. It's a great effect, shame I can't use it on my really wide angle:( (Apparently it sees too much of the sky, so you get banding) It's fun pointing them at something reflective (water or glass) and rotating till the reflection goes. Kind of freaky:)

Haven't really used the ND or the Grads yet, but I should be giving them (the Grads) a bash in the next few weeks.

Oh, and it goes without saying, that ALL of my lenses (except my 60mm macro) have UV filters on the front, for protection. Must pick one up for the 60mm.
 

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I just bought a ND4 filter and tried it for the first time a few days ago on my Lumix G Vario 45 -200 lens. The camera is the Panasonic Lumix G1, yes I moved to the Dark Side...Apple Mac friendly Chistian but let's not go there ;)

I left the camera's automatic exposure system to work out the filter factor. I shot straight into the sun out to sea in the early evening it was still quite bright although the results looked nothing like the conditions but more like a sunset. Just a few quick snaps below.






The ND 4 filter helped with a silhouette shot. Again this was straight into the sun and conditions were quite bright.




I've yet to try the filter on a 'blurred water shot' but that's made easier with the Lumix G1 as you can see how adjusting the aperture and shutter speed settings will affect the photo in Live View ;)

Architecture photographers have a useful technique that often needs an ND filter to work. When photographing famous landmarks you often have problems with tourists getting in the way. If the shutter speed is slow enough it will be open long enough to ensure the moving people are so blurred they cannot be seen on the image. A 1/2sec exposure may record a streak of someone walking while a 4 sec exposure will make them vanish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yes I moved to the Dark Side...Apple Mac friendly Chistian but let's not go there ;)
You're a traitor, an unmitigated traitor, Tony. :eek:mg: :eek:

You've got some nice shots there and your tip for making people "go away" is very useful - as you know this above water lark is very new to me and I'm still very much on the learning curve.

Did I say that you're a traitor?

I'm thinking of the very new 17" MacBook Pro, mainly because of the elegant track pad which incorporates the "click" device. That's because I've got into some slovenly habits with the trackpad + click bar which is beginning to give my ancient hands some particular hell (carpal tunnel syndrome anyone?) and i can't seem to wean myself off those habits. Yes, I know, use a mouse (and I used to use one back in the old days either right or left handed) but that defeats the purpose doesn't it? Trubble is I just know I'll want the one with all the bells and whistles which is going to come in at around, cough, $Au6.5K.
 
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