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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got an Ixus 100 with the Ikelite housing - the combination is a little bit positively bouyant.

I've done a quick check on the interweb and I can't see a weight for the housing which would balance it out a bit.

Don't suppose anyone has any greater knowledge??
 

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Aquatic Womble
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I've got an Ixus85, and I'm sure the housings are very similar. To make mine neutral, I aquired a thick strip of brass, measured the holes on the bottom of the housing and drilled the brass. Then I screwed the counterweight to the bottom of the housing. I think the threads are M6 thread.
 

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Dive tart, just can't say no :-)
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Easiest trick is to pop into your local tyre shop quickfit etc and ask them for a strip of self adhesive wheel weights. Most will give them to you for free if you ask nicely. Stick as many as you need on the bottom of your housing and jobs a goodun. :D
 

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stick a couple of strobes on it..
The Nikonos SB104 strobes you (just) see in my avatar were very positively buoyant. Unfortunately the Nik RS AF was so negative that it almost broke my wrists regardless.
 

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I've got an Ixus85, and I'm sure the housings are very similar. To make mine neutral, I aquired a thick strip of brass, measured the holes on the bottom of the housing and drilled the brass. Then I screwed the counterweight to the bottom of the housing. I think the threads are M6 thread.
On almost every camera and housing we could get our hands on, the bolt was a BSW thread. I can't remember exactly which, but screwing an M6 bolt into it would likely damage the threads, and with some designs possibly damage the housing itself as well.

There was a thread on here where we asked everyone to have a measure up, all results came back the same.

Digs.
 

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devil-may-care Diver and U/W tog
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The Nikonos SB104 strobes you (just) see in my avatar were very positively buoyant. Unfortunately the Nik RS AF was so negative that it almost broke my wrists regardless.
My housing is positive, mostly due to the dome port i susect but with the two DS-125 it's now slightly negative... i was looking at some 'floaty' arms as (given the choice) i prefer slightly positive just in case i ever let go of it
 

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My housing is positive, mostly due to the dome port i susect but with the two DS-125 it's now slightly negative... i was looking at some 'floaty' arms as (given the choice) i prefer slightly positive just in case i ever let go of it
Mine sinks like a brick with the macro port on it.
Allegedly, the DS200s I have are actually floaty in the water as well! Might have to judiciously apply some floats to it.
 

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Dive tart, just can't say no :-)
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My housing is positive, mostly due to the dome port i susect but with the two DS-125 it's now slightly negative... i was looking at some 'floaty' arms as (given the choice) i prefer slightly positive just in case i ever let go of it
Mine sinks like a brick with the macro port on it.
Allegedly, the DS200s I have are actually floaty in the water as well! Might have to judiciously apply some floats to it.
Being a tightwad and always reluctant to spend money unnescessarily I was wondering about using some foam on my arms (thinking pipe lagging) anyone got a view on whether that would work? Might not look that flash but I don't worry about looks lol :D
 

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Wouldn't the pressure crush it?

Not too sure how those STIX floats work. Ask Alex.M, I think he uses them, but they are pricey. Failing that, I'll pick some up and we can have a try on Saturday:D
 

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14-9-09
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Guess I could always try to design a BCD for my housing with it's own inflate and auto dump valves. What do you think should I patent the idea 1st? :D
Np Pete... its already been done with large film camera's :thumbs_up:

Berok :(
 

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PeeBee,
I've been using a length of one of those foam pool toys for kids round the arm that connects my video light to the housing. Yes, it gets squeezed at depth, but the idea was just to make the whole rig slightly positively buoyant in case it gets dropped from a boat. It works perfectly for me, without making everything too floaty.
You'll have to experiment, but the cost is next to nothing - big advantage!

Cheers,
Mat
 

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Actually the idea of floatation came up on my favourite u/w photography forum, probably when the Nik RS AF first saw the light of day, IOW a long time ago.

Foam, as in that used for the buoys of fishermen, tends to collapse (much like neoprene) at depth. We did however establish that a particular (I forget) type of foam does work but that forum doesn't have an archive facility. If anyone wants to know which that is I can pop that question on that forum, there are several there who will surely give me a pretty well instant answer.
 

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I've got an Ixus 100 with the Ikelite housing - the combination is a little bit positively bouyant.

I've done a quick check on the interweb and I can't see a weight for the housing which would balance it out a bit.

Don't suppose anyone has any greater knowledge??
Stewbie,

I'm not sure if I still have it but I used to have a little weight that came with the Olympus SP-350 housing. It screwed into the standard screw hole at the bottom and was great. If I have it you're welcome to it if it's any good.

BTW, if anyone wants a suspect housing for an Olympus SP-350 then you can have that too for a donation.

Alistair
 
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