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Hi

Sorry I've not been around for a while. Loads of work, DIR fundamentals, followed by even more work, you know the story.

Anyway, I have a scubapro manifold and twin twelves. When the cylinders are empty the valve knobs turn easily on and off. The isolator rotates easily showing that the tanks are correctly aligned in the bands etc.

However, when the cylinders are full the knobs become hard to turn, and this makes valve drills difficult. Does anyone know how to service these things or make them easier to turn. I'm sure it must be a lube thing becuase they are so easy to turn when empty.

Kindest Regards

WL
 

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I have the same problem. Was with Andy Dales a couple of weeks ago and he showed me how to strip down your manifold and re-grease the insides with O2 grease. He reckons it should be done every 15 dives or so. Must admit to not having the balls to do it yet!
 

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<font color='#0000FF'>This definately isn't the right type of stiff knob problem you want  


I've not tried it yet but my understanding is that with empty tanks you can fairly easily disassemble your pillar valves, lube the workings (pref with O2 compatible grease) and they should be fine. Hopefully I'll be tackling this myself (probably under more expert supervision) sometime in the next few weeks and may have more info then.  

Chee-az
Steve
 

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<font color='#000080'>WL,

the knobs are hard to turn because the valves are un-balanced (unlike MDE valves which are easy to turn). I don't think that lubrication will help. I have been informed that it is possible to balance an S/Pro valve by running a hack saw blade across the thread. I think it was AK who mentioned it so maybe you should drop him a line.

HTH.

Mark  
 

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Sorry to disagree, Mark, but if the valves were unbalanced, you'd need to be Superman to move them when fully tightened - it'd be like trying to unscrew a DIN clamp without bleeding out the pressure.

My valves (not s/pro) suffer the same problem, I keep promising myself I'll deal with it. Others I know who've had the same manifold have proclaimed great success with taking it apart and lubing it.

I believe the Airspeed regulator servicing book also talks about valves and manifolds..?

(I don't know, a thread about lubricating stiff knobs, this forum really has gone downhill
)
 

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[b said:
Quote[/b] (Dominic @ April 02 2003,20:40)]Sorry to disagree, Mark, but if the valves were unbalanced, you'd need to be Superman to move them when fully tightened - it'd be like trying to unscrew a DIN clamp without bleeding out the pressure.
<font color='#000080'>No worries, I may be wrong (not for the first time).
 

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Hi WL

I also have the Scubapro manifold and had the exact same problem as yourself but Andy Hayhurst (Dalesdiver) also stripped down mine and greased them...

They are now silky smooth... thanks Andy


And I'm with Bob, where's the bloody report
I actually PM'ed you with some questions about the fundamentals course but I'm not sure if you got it or not as I've been having problems with PM's

If you need to ask anything else about lubing yer knobs (OOher missus) gimme a shout....
 

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Interesting,were they not stripped and correctly reassembled and lubed at your last test?
As has been said it's not rocket science once you know how,but it should be done when tested.
Alternatively get some decent valves like Sabres,Normalairs or something,you'll never have trouble again
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hobby.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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Hi

These are brand new and were like it when I got them. I set them up myself but the only change I've made is replace the plastic knobs with rubber ones. I bought them as O2 clean and so haven't taken them apart yet (the knobs that is)

I would have liked a Halcyon one but no one would sell me one!! Even Underwater Explorers don't sell them and they're the UK importers !! Pitiful really !

Kindest Regards

WL

PS Bob and Willo, I'm working on the report!! Will post it soon.
 

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Maybe worth taking them back/speaking to the suppliers.if you ask them to lube them up,get them to do it when you can watch and then you'll have killed two birds with one stone!
Just to clarify having re-read,is it the manifold knob that's hard to turn?
Are the cylinder valves Scubapro too annd are they difficult to operate?
Hobby.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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Hi

Its the knobs that are hard to turn, the isolator is fine. I didn't lube it when I assembled them, because I've heard bad things about dust and sand getting in the threads. When I next strip them down I'll lube it lightly and see if it makes a difference, I'm not that bothered.

The knobs, especially the isolator, are hard to turn on a valve drill. The valve knobs are OK but I still think they should be easier to turn. Some of it is obviously due to lack of strength when your hand is right behind your head and because my right arm is stronger than my left (the right post is easier to reach and turn than the left)

I just wanted advice on taking the knob assembly apart, and re assembling it, what to look for, and more importantly, what NOT to do.

Kindest Regards

WL
 

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lubing valves

Sorry to open up such an old thread - this one is the most apt!

I am looking to strip down my valves and lube them - they're Agir Brok (if that makes any difference..) and about 2 months old.

To be honest, being that old, I would have thought they would have been easier to shut down..

Anyway, I realise I need to empty the tins.

Can anyone point me in the direction of details on how to strip and lube them. what grease/lube should be used? any special tools required?

thanks in advance..
 

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aka Chimp 1 or Mavis...
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The reason you can't shut them down is because you can't find them.... :)

Although saying that, the left post is definitely much harder to operate than my old set.
 

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In my experience of re-fitting about 1,000 main cylinder valves, its not a grease problem. If you look at the exploded diagram of the valve parts in the manual refered to in the previous posts .. you will see that the main valve (the little grub screw) is turned by a soft metal tongued screw (which is turned by the bit you grab with your hand). The soft metal is 'supposed' to bend to prevent over-tightening of the main valve. It doesn't work. In practice, over time, either the nylon seating (which closes against the main cyliner outlet) gets splayed & torn; or more frequently - the grub screw is splayed where the soft metal tongue fits into it and causes the grub screw to run tight in its thread. Re-greasing the O ring will have NO effect!

HTH - Andy
 

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Thanks for that Andy!

How come some valves are easier to move than others? Wilbo and I have the same valve set and mine are definitely harder to turn than my MDE set?

And I am sure Wilbo will ask the question, what can be done to make them easier to turn. I can do them relatively easy, but they aren't as slick as the last lot.

Regards
 

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don't you try to get into my good books young man.

:D

GLOC said:
Thanks for that Andy!

How come some valves are easier to move than others? Wilbo and I have the same valve set and mine are definitely harder to turn than my MDE set?

And I am sure Wilbo will ask the question, what can be done to make them easier to turn. I can do them relatively easy, but they aren't as slick as the last lot.

Regards
 
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