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Thermostat/sensor. Disconnect and reconnect whilst running "Th'engine".
Go down "T bike shop an get a new un".

Sensor that is. Not a wife.
 

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All hail the mighty ZOM
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thermostat/sensor. Disconnect and reconnect whilst running "Th'engine".
Go down "T bike shop an get a new un".

Sensor that is. Not a wife.
Engine management light on, tried that. Still on. Probably a borked sensor. Luckily piece of cake to access. Any idea what I can use to read ECU fault codes? The temperature gauge seems to work which is odd. Unless that comes off the oil which wouldn't be odd.
 

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All hail the mighty ZOM
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Discussion Starter #6
Well that's slightly annoying.

Spent an evening about 6 months ago fitting a second hand Power Commander to sort out the fuelling on the Missus' bike with it's noisy exhaust. It worked very well but did involved stripping the tank off and having a proper fiddle:



It seems that with a bit of freeware called TuneECU and an 8 quid cable I could have done the same thing and would have had to strip it down no more than removing the seat. Same bit of software and cable can be used to check and reset the fault codes before I blow £40 on a sensor.

Now is it worth my while stripping off the PC and eBaying it?
 

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bulging sweaty dirty putrescent member
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PC's still fetch good money so yes move it on
Only thing is...are you sure the £8 cable and free SW will do as good a job as the PC?
mebbies run the cheapo for a bit afore ditching the PC


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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All hail the mighty ZOM
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Discussion Starter #8
PC's still fetch good money so yes move it on
Only thing is...are you sure the £8 cable and free SW will do as good a job as the PC?
mebbies run the cheapo for a bit afore ditching the PC


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's more the other way round. The cheapo cable and software modify the original ECU rather than piggy backing. Will have a play it's not the end of the world!
 

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I had a speed triple and sure I had fan on all time and ecu light in.

Seem to remember it was because my battery went a bit flat, after 3 full fan cycles the ecu resets but I just took it to triumph and they reset it for nothing.
 

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All hail the mighty ZOM
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Discussion Starter #10
I had a speed triple and sure I had fan on all time and ecu light in.

Seem to remember it was because my battery went a bit flat, after 3 full fan cycles the ecu resets but I just took it to triumph and they reset it for nothing.
Battery tip top as it sits on a trickle charger in the garage. Anyway have ordered a cheapo cable so can diagnose and reset it. Also fits Audi, vw, seat, a mates aprillia too. Handy.
 

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Any ideas? The radiator cooling fan on the missus' Speed Triple runs continually even with the engine stone cold.
Your Missus is really hot stuff?
 
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A bit late to the party. TuneECU works fine, juts make sure you find the appropriate map, upload and save the existing first. This is the cable I bought, apparently the cheaper ones can be a bit flaky. I think for a speed triple the map is the same as the sprints (at least the early versions), originally map in my sprint was a speed triple one.
 

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All hail the mighty ZOM
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Discussion Starter #14
TuneECU reports:
P0118 engine coolant temperature sensor circuit high voltage
P1552 coolant fan short circuit to ground or open circuit

Remarkably it got going with Win 7 64 bit. Marvellous.

Internet chap replaced both the sensor and thermostat. Do I need to replace the thermostat too or just the sensor? The engine doesn't over heat or owt.
 

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Do they come back if you clear the alarms? Just I had a load on my sprint when the battery voltage went low, I think transitory alarms must lock on. If they come back I'd go for the cheapest / easiest to change first.
 

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TuneECU reports:
P0118 engine coolant temperature sensor circuit high voltage
P1552 coolant fan short circuit to ground or open circuit

Remarkably it got going with Win 7 64 bit. Marvellous.

Internet chap replaced both the sensor and thermostat. Do I need to replace the thermostat too or just the sensor? The engine doesn't over heat or owt.
Assuming it works like a car engine: If it doesn't overheat, the thermostat should be fine. The sensor is probably what is goosed, which is what keeps the fan on when it doesn't need to be on. That said, if you've dropped the fluid anyway and the thermostat hasn't been changed in more than 3 years, I'd think about changing it as a matter of course if it is the same kind of cost as a car thermostat.

Digs.
 

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All hail the mighty ZOM
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Discussion Starter #17
Assuming it works like a car engine: If it doesn't overheat, the thermostat should be fine. The sensor is probably what is goosed, which is what keeps the fan on when it doesn't need to be on. That said, if you've dropped the fluid anyway and the thermostat hasn't been changed in more than 3 years, I'd think about changing it as a matter of course if it is the same kind of cost as a car thermostat.

Digs.
About 40 quid for the thermostat, same for the sensor. The odd thing is the temperature gauge, both the one on the clocks and on the TuneECu diagnostic page, seem to work. Reckon there is another sensor for that?
 

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About 40 quid for the thermostat, same for the sensor. The odd thing is the temperature gauge, both the one on the clocks and on the TuneECu diagnostic page, seem to work. Reckon there is another sensor for that?
At that price, I'd change the sensor and see if it fixes it. If it doesn't, change the thermostat as well. From the sound of things I doubt it is the same type as car thermostats, which are about a fiver.

Fairly normal to have one sensor for the fan kicking in, and another sensor for the temp gauge. Different applications - one needs to send a range of temps fairly accurately, the other just needs to send an "on" signal if temp reaches X.

Digs.
 
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