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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Apart from

Niknaks
Dir Direct
Dublin bay


Does anybody know if somebody has them in stock?

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Apart from

Niknaks
Dir Direct
Dublin bay
Lumb Bros (Woz, they have everything else):frown:

Anybody got any ideas.............
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
if you are looking closer to home - Kent Diving?

or any places that sell ranges of Tech Gear and twinsets.
You'd think it would be that easy would'nt you
:frown:

Underwater explorers added to the list:frown:
 

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Speak to NickB, I know he made some up last year and he might have some left over.
 

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Speak to NickB, I know he made some up last year and he might have some left over.
No, he doesn't; they're very popular.

I've got lead though and I will be knocking up a 2.5kg p-weight for Dobbo, as a favour, some time before we go to Scapa.

With the limited resources I have to melt lead (an old frying pan and a camping stove), it's very time-consuming making these things.
 

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No, he doesn't; they're very popular.

I've got lead though and I will be knocking up a 2.5kg p-weight for Dobbo, as a favour, some time before we go to Scapa.

With the limited resources I have to melt lead (an old frying pan and a camping stove), it's very time-consuming making these things.
You'd think it would be that easy would'nt you
:frown:

Underwater explorers added to the list:frown:
Paul,

if you want to have a go at making your own - vweight
 

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OK, here's how to make your own P-weight.

You will need:

a quantity of lead
a well-ventilated area, covered if rain is expected
1 large, heavy-duty pan that you are prepared to write-off
1 equally expendable large spoon/ladle
1 heat source
a steel/aluminium backplate
some aluminium foil
2 short lengths of timber
2 house bricks/breeze blocks
1 foil takeaway container (or similar)
a pair of welding gloves - decent oven gloves may suffice
some protective clothing and eyewear is highly recommended
a large container full of cold water (big enough to jump in could be handy)

Make sure that the dog/cat/kids are kept well away from the area and do not leave any of this stuff unattended until it has all cooled down. Leave the phone off the hook and switch off the mobile. You do not want to be distracted.

Remove all the paraphernalia from your backplate, having first memorised how it all goes back on - better still take a few photos. The webbing will have taken on a set where the D-rings etc. go, so getting it just right again shouldn't be a problem.

Line the backplate channel with aluminium foil. In order to turn it into a mould, you will need to dam up the ends of the groove. I used some foil-lined pieces of timber and propped these up with housebricks. Make sure the backplate is lying horizontally in both planes.

Don your protective clothing, eyewear and gloves.

Melt some lead. This sounds quite daunting and to be honest I was a bit nervous about this the first time. You'll need to get hold of a decent heavy duty pan and be prepared to reserve it for just this use in future or bin it as it won't be much use in the kitchen afterwards. You'll need about 0.25 – 0.5 kg more lead than you require in the finished article.

I melted my lead in the back yard as lead gives off some highly dangerous fumes. If you have a decent extractor over your cooker and this takes the air outside the house, you might get away with doing it in the kitchen, but I wasn't prepared to do that so I ended up using my MSR Whisperlite camping stove which is capable of putting out some serious heat.

As the lead melts, you will need to skim off the crud that floats to the top. I used a large kitchen spoon which again I was happy to set aside for future use as it's pretty much finished for 'table use'. Have a suitable receptacle handy to receive this crud, such as an old foil takeaway container.

When the lead has melted, continue to heat for a few more minutes to get the lead hot enough so that it doesn't immediately start to solidify as you pour it. Do not expect to see the lead 'boil' or smoke.

When you're happy that the lead has fully melted and all the crap has been skimmed off, take the pan and carefully pour the molten lead into the backplate groove in one smooth action. If the lead wasn't hot enough, or you don't pour it quick enough, the lead can start to solidify before it's all been poured. If this happens, put it down to experience, return the lead to the heat and start again.

When the lead has cooled (with the help of a bucketful of water, if necessary), you can start to fettle it.

Remove the aluminium foil from the backplate, some of it may well be stuck to the P-weight at this stage. Put the weight back into the channel and through the back of the plate, trace the holes with a felt pen where the tank band bolts need to go through.

Drill two 10mm holes through the weight and counter-bore these holes with a 25-30mm flat wood bit leaving about 3mm thickness to the weight.

The weight can be held in place with the nuts and washers which fit into the counter-bored holes. No drilling of the backplate or adding bolts to the P-weight is necessary.

I had to chop about 25mm off the end of the weight with a woodsaw to allow for the crotchstrap.

When it’s finished it should look something like this:

The beauty of using your own backplate is that you’ll end up with a P-weight that perfectly matches the profile of the centre channel. I used a Halcyon backplate and made P-weights up to 4kg. It should be possible to create even heavier ones if necessary, but at some stage the lead will overflow the channel somewhat, although this shouldn’t be a problem (other than aesthetically)
 

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I know its an old thread but i've got a similar problem.

Im after a P-weight for my plate but can't find anyone with that.

niknaks won't have them for weeks, underwater explorers dont have them nor in fact does anyone else i usually buy stuff off online.

So, anyone know any retailer that has some in stock?

(I suspect if i try DIY i'll end up in hospital).
 

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A much easier solution to P weights

Rather than having all that fun melting lead in a frying pan there is a much easier solution to P-weights......

Go to any DIY or building supply shop and buy a roll of leading flashing - 200mm / 6" wide is ideal. Cut off a couple of strips slightly shorther than your backplate - use enough strips to give you the weight that you need and roughly duct tape the strips into a stack. Lay back plate on floor, lay stack on top and beat into shape of plate with hammer. When beaten to shape, drill two holes for tank bolts and apply more duct tape to hold the whole thing together.

Works a treat and other than the risk of banging your finger is a lot safer than DIY lead casting.

Hugh
 

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Rather than having all that fun melting lead in a frying pan there is a much easier solution to P-weights......

Go to any DIY or building supply shop and buy a roll of leading flashing - 200mm / 6" wide is ideal. Cut off a couple of strips slightly shorther than your backplate - use enough strips to give you the weight that you need and roughly duct tape the strips into a stack. Lay back plate on floor, lay stack on top and beat into shape of plate with hammer. When beaten to shape, drill two holes for tank bolts and apply more duct tape to hold the whole thing together.

Works a treat and other than the risk of banging your finger is a lot safer than DIY lead casting.

Hugh
a nice simple alternative..
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sportextreme had them, but they are now rebuilding their site.

Try Dublinbay, Jack may have some:)
Hopefully :redface:
 

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