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Hey everyone,

Just got hold of a second hand SDS Latching unit (handgrenade pull pin type) for quick release of twins from the wing.

However it didn't come with any fixings, so I need 2 bolts and 2 nylock nuts for the wing side and another 2 nylock nuts for the cylinder side (or wing nuts I guess) and a total of 4 spring washers.

Where's the best place to get them?

SDS want £10 - seems a little steep, but at least they know exactly what I want................

Cheers
Juz
 

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<font color='#0000FF'>Juz

I have two of these plus an old one I had for a BC, (bracket is probably shorter) but I might still have the bolts and nuts and washers, although I think there are only two washers on the ones I have on my wing.  

Let me see if I can lay my hands on them and you can have those.  However if you are desparate you could try B & Q as I am not in the office tomorrow and don't have internet at home.  

I am going to SDS as when I took my wing apart the other day the bracket on the wing side was slightly bent and I don't know how this has happened, so going to see Dennis in the morning.

Fiona
 

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Don't try B&Q as anything but a stopgap - their "stainless" bolts are just zinc-plated, they DO rust (I've tried them myself). Tho they can be helpful in finding out what sizing you need..

Go to any chandlers, they all sell truly stainless bolts for a quid or so.
 

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If you are lucky enough to have a local supplier of bolts, rope, fittings etc, get some stainless steel studding (like a very long threaded bolt but without the ends) which usually come in metre lengths for a few quid.  You can then cut to whichever length you like and have plenty of cash left over to by SS washers and nuts etc.

HTH

 

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The Artist formerly known as 'John Duncan'
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<font color='#F52887'>If you want good quality weather resistant fixings, try your local chandler. I have picked up many a fixing from them
 

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[b said:
Quote[/b] ]If you are lucky enough to have a local supplier of bolts, rope, fittings etc, get some stainless steel studding (like a very long threaded bolt but without the ends) which usually come in metre lengths for a few quid.  You can then cut to whichever length you like and have plenty of cash left over to by SS washers and nuts etc.
Call that DIY?

Buy a rod of 316 stainless steel, thread it yourself, weld the appropriate nut to the end, and call it a bolt. THAT'S DIY


Last time I was at Runneymede Dive, they mentioned how much they preferred people who use bolts rather than threaded rods - apparently every employee there has scars on their legs 11" from where threaded rods that stick out the back of the twinset have caused injury
 

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Hi Juz
I purchased a pair of 316 grade studs (long) for when I bolted my twinset to my Buddy ABS backplate (because I thought I'd need the extra length (if only it was that easy!
)) and a bag of nylock nuts.  If you want one/both and a couple of nylock nuts for each, PM me with your address and I'll pop them in the post - call it a fiver.
Regards
Martin

Edited - should have read 316 NOT 306!
 

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316?  Is that marine grade?  Uh oh...

There's DIY and there's making hard work for yourself!  By the way, the solution to jagged bits is a) filing them (no brainer there!) and b) either domed nuts or wing nuts, either of which will protect from scratches if the studding has been cut to the right length.  I use domed nuts.  

I'm a believer in re-use, so you won't catch me welding permanent bits if I can help it - pay for welding?  Are you mad?!  Think of the electricity you're using!


I am also wary of chandlers.  They usually have huge mark-ups (because yachties can afford it and their business has a seasonal element) - the flip-side to that is you don't have to worry too much about SS being marine grade.
 

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Well, of course, you COULD just use two nuts, but that's so low-brow...



Mind you, a bit of threaded rod, a washer, two nuts and one wingnut make a killer P-weight. Just add molten lead
 

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You've seen my rig then!!!  

Found this on a site for those unsure...

Type 304
The most common of austenitic grades, containing approximately 18% chromium and 8% nickel. It is used for chemical processing equipment, for food, dairy, and beverage industries, for heat exchangers, and for the milder chemicals.  

Type 316
Contains 16% to 18% chromium and 11% to 14% nickel. It also has molybdenum added to the nickel and chrome of the 304. The molybdenum is used to control pit type attack. Type 316 is used in chemical processing, the pulp and paper industry, for food and beverage processing and dispensing and in the more corrosive environments. The molybdenum must be a minimum of 2%.

This one had me a bit confused...
Type 317
Contains a higher percentage of molybdenum than 316 for highly corrosive environments. It must have a minimum of 3% &#8220;moly&#8221;. It is often used in stacks which contain scrubbers.  

Stacking scrubbers, eh?  I'm using the wrong aftershave...

So now you know.
 

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[b said:
Quote[/b] (Juz @ Nov. 13 2003,16:14)]However it didn't come with any fixings, so I need 2 bolts and 2 nylock nuts for the wing side and another 2 nylock nuts for the cylinder side (or wing nuts I guess) and a total of 4 spring washers.

Where's the best place to get them?

SDS want £10 - seems a little steep, but at least they know exactly what I want................
What you want you can get here

http://www.namrick.co.uk/browse.asp?PCID=15

hope this helps.

Ian.
 

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SS grades
316L is the grade for marine use and is what most of the SS in the chandlers is made of.
304L is also used for marine applications but is not as good as 316L won't stand up as well to splashing and submergence in salt water.
 
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